
Class _ 
Book. 
Copyright N^. 



C r 



VL5_ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 




West Branches 
Penobscot 



"Where ttie Sportsman Loves to Linger." 



A 



NARRATIVE OF THE MOST POPULAR 
CANOE TRIPS IN MAINE. 



THE ALLAGA5I1, THE EAST AND WEST 
BRANCHES OF THE PENOBSCOT. 



BY 



G. SMITH STANTON. 



New York: 
J. S. OGILVIE PUBLISHING COMPANY, 

57 Rose Street. 






L.:/::AKV;;t -i^Jni-^ss' 


:V,,, ,-}Oi;!iiS iiW^^VCf.:. 


iMUV 7 5^05 


1 «l.'pv 3. 



Copyright, ]!»().'), nr G. Smith Stanton. 



To the rcfjistercd guides of the f^tate of Maine, ever faith- 
ful to their trust, this hook is dedicated. 



PREFACE. 

The author has madc^ many cauoe and hunting trips 
through the woods of Maine and knows the benefit to health 
derived therefrom, and if this narrative is the means of 
restoring tlie health of even one reader, the objeet of its 
production will be attained. 



CONTEXTS. 

CHAPTER I. PAGE 

New York to Moosehead Lake 11 

CHAPTER IT. 

From Moosehead to Chesungook Lake 24 

CHAPTER III. 
Chesuncook to Umsaskis Lake 36 

CHAPTER IV. 

LTMSA8KI8 Lake to Fort Kent 49 

CHAPTER V. 

Fort Kent to West Branch — Mount Katahdin. . . . 61 

CHAPTER VI. 

AYest Branch — Mount Katahdin to Sourdnahunk 

Dead Water "3 

CHAPTER VII. 

^OURDNAHI'NK DEAD WATER TO ChESUNCOOK 87 

CHAPTER VIII. 
'vSuncook" to Grand Lake 1^0 

CHAPTER IX. 
From Grand Lake Home HI 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

"North Star," Maine Steamship Company J2 

Portland Harbor 1^ 

Bar Harbor Express, Maine Central Railroad 1*J 

Main Street, Bangor 1" 

Moosehead Lake Division, Bangor and Aroostook Railroad ]S 

First View of Kineo ^^ 

Boat Landing, Kineo 20 

View from Top of Kineo '^^ 

Northeast Carry, Mooseiiead Lake 22 

Where the Sportsman Loves to Linger 23 

Northeast Carry, West Branch 2.j 

Senior Member of the Transportation Company, Bateau and Canoe 27 

They Watched Us as We Passed 29 

Lobster Lake 20 

Beavers' Work ^1 

West Branch Above Moosehorn ^^ 

West Branch Below Moosehorn 24 

Chesuncook Lake 37 

Mud Pond Carry 2S 

Mud Pond 39 

Chamberlin Dam 41 

We Were Within a Canoe's Length of This Gentleman 4L' 

The Greed of the Beef Trust Drives a Fellow to This -^3 

The Author Supplying the "Meat Market" 44 

The Doctor Performing the Autopsy 45 

The End of Chase's Carry— An Revoir 47 

Between Umsaskis and Long Lakes 50 

The Winding Allagash 54 

Allagash Falls 52 

The Little Fawn We Saved 53 

The Allagash Entering the St. John 54 

Taking-Out Place — Connors 5l. 

Connors, N. B 5G 

The Kineo Indian and the Author 57 



10 LIST OF ILLT^STRATIOXS. 



PAGE 

The Valley of the St. John— Fort Kent 59 

Taking-Out Place— Fort Kent 62 

Historic Block House 63 

The Modest Chorus Girl We Admired 64 

Between Fort Kent and Xorcross 65 

Norcross 66 

Ambajejus Lake 68 

Loon, or Great Northern Diver 69 

Debconeaf? Falls 71 

Pockwockamus Dead-water 74 

Pockwockamus Carry 75 

A Carry 76 

Abol Falls 77 

From Mount Katahdin's Summit 79 

"Good Morning, Mr. Trout! How Are All the Family?" 81 

Our Chicago F'riend's Camp, Sourdnahunk Lake 82 

Find the Fish 83 

Wrecked on the West Branch 84 

Grub for Knights of the Tripod 83 

Author's Tent, Where the Narrative Was Drafted S8 

Sourdnahunk Stream 89 

Sourdnahunk Falls 91 

Ripogenus Gorg'- 92 

Ripogenus Carry 93 

Between Ripogenus and ChcFuncook 95 

Chesuncook Dam 'jf5 

The "Caribou" 98 

"Suncook"— Storm Coming 101 

The Deer We Couldn't Eat luG 

What We Saw on Webster Lake 1()4 

Entering Grand Lake 105 

Dream That Came True lOG 

Breaking Log Wings li;7 

Winter Scene lo9 

Making a Carry Over Logs 112 

Rounding Log Wings— Hulling Machine 113 

Taking a Breathing Spell HI 

Up Against It at Last 117, 

Grindstone— Scene from the Taking-Out Place. The End of Our Canoe Trip 117 

Near Old Town— The Entire Party, by Request of the Guides 118 

Kenduskeag Stream, Bangor— Nearing the Buzz-Saw 119 

"City of Rockland" 12o 

"Priscilla" j22 



where the Sportsman Loves to Linger, 



CHAPTER T. 

NEW YORK TO MOOSEIIEAl) LAKE. 

As one of tlie officers of tlie ''North Star," of the ^Maine 
Steainshij) Coiiipaiiy, as she lay alongside of IMer 32, East 
liiver, in New York Harbor, on a hot afternoon in Jnly,was 
calling-, ''All ashore! ^\\\o is goiii^ aslioi'i^?" tlicre ra]tiilly 
drove on to the i:)ier a wai;onette. The footman jumped fro;ii 
liis seat and assisted a careworn genth^man to aligiit. The 
occupant of the wagonette was a member of the New York 
bar, and, being far from well, an old friend had reroin- 
mended a canoe trip tlirough the Avoods of Elaine. Before 
the setting of the sun tlie ''North Star" was Avell on her 
way along the ^lediterranean of America, Long Island 
Sound, and the next day at 1.30 v.m. she was rounding 
Cape Elizabeth and entering the harbor of Toitland, one 
of the finest, if not tiie finest harbor along the entire At- 
lantic Coast. 

Every stateroom of tlie ''North Star" was occupied, the 
boat b(Mng crowded v»ilh tourists bound for the resorts of 
the Pine Tree State, New P>runswick and beyond. The 



12 



\yiti:re the .'^roRTSMAx loves to linger. 



^'XortU Star" is a splendid boat in ev(a\v respect, and espe- 
cially did we enjoy the location of the dinini;-rooni. The 
diniim-rooiii of a steamer is o-enerally down below, but that 
of the ''Xoi-tli Slai-" reminded us of tlie location of that 
verv innxtrtant auisex in our downtown clubs. Tlic diniu'^i- 



f 



room of tlic ]>onls of the .Maine Steamship ComiKiny is on 
the n])per deck, and runs the whoh' width of the boat, af- 
fording plenty of fresh air and, no matter whi<h way you 
look, a magnificent view of the water. 

As one enters New En.uland after leavinij,' the metropolis 
it seems as if he were a Columbus and had aiiain discov- 
ered America. The si^ius of the l)usiness houses along the 
streets of bright and l)eautiful Portland contain the good 
old Vaidcee names, and the street car employees and hack- 



wiiKKE Tin: spoitTSMAX LOVES TO lin(;i:r. 13 

iiion are a (lifforont article tlian tliose who ordc^r us about 
in cosmopolitan New York. 

If a stranij^er falls ill in Portland lie should take the 
nearest hack and direct the driver to Longfellow's Statue 
and then down Conoress Street toward tlie Union De])ot. 
AVe will guarantc^e he will find the doetor at home, no mat- 
ter what his hours. We doubt if there is a parallel case 
on this eontinent. AVe do not exa<»'.nerate in stating that 
we believe in that half mile tliere are more doctors than 
in any other half mile in any State of the Union. There 
is one thing eertain, there couldn't be any more, as a 
doctor's sign is on every house, and when you see a 
double house there you find a doul)le doctor; and ]Mr. 
Sawl)ones is not confined to one side of the street, as 
in every house on each side the doctor is at your service. 
The Portland doctors seem to believe in that patriotic 
plirase, ''United we stand, divided we fall." It is quit(^ un- 
fortunate that in so high and healthy a city the doctors 
have pre-empted the main artery between its busiest pul)lic 
S(iuare and the I^nion Depot. It produces a sickening 
impression. 

The depot used by the Maiwe Tentral Pail road is a fine 
architectural structure. We found that the cars of the Bar 
IIar])or Ex|)ress contained all the conveniences that the 
most exacting passenger could ask for, and we enjoyed 
every minute of the four hours we spent sj^HMling through 
' the cool and beautiful country from Portland to Bangor. 
Our train made a ten-minute stop at Augusta. As we 
looked over the town our thoughts wandered back to 
Maine's great statesman — tlie Plun:ed Kniglit. There were 
two men defrauded out of tlie Presidency, Samuel J. Tilden 
and James G. Blaine — Tilden in the State of Louisiana 
and Blaine in New York City. 



14 



WHERE THE 8P0RTS:\IAX LOVES TO LINGER. 



xVn attractive citv is Banuor, the town at the head of 
navi^iiation on the Penobscot. To the north of it lies the 
great Avooded wihlerness. llerc^ A\e were to hiy aside the 
dress appropriate ahnig Fifth Avenne and don the wood- 
man's attire, bny our stock of provisions;, select onr canoes, 




Portland Harbor. 



purchase onr wearing apparel, meet one of our guides, and, 
last but not least, greet the friend who was to accom- 
pany ns on the trip — Dr. Hazel ton. While we were at 
breakfast at tlie Bangor House we received the Doctor's 
card. With him Avas a noble si)ecimen of the red man, an 
Old Town Indian, young, tall, athletic and unusually intel- 
ligent. To liim was left all the arrangements for the trip, 
the hiring of an additional guide and the selection of the 



WHERE THE SPOKTiSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 15 

campiui'- outfit. AW^ spent the day shopping'. One of the 
most enjoyal)le additions to our canipini!, pai'aphernalia 
was a piHow. It may seem a littk^ tenderfootish to take a 
piUow into the woods, but it Avill help you to many an 
hou]'\s aood sleep. 

\Yliile in Ean^or we saw the former home of Hannibal 
Hamlin. AMiat recollections it brought back to us! The 
partner, Ave might say, of ''Old Abe" in those times that 
tried men's souls. The trials of all the other Presidents 
before or since could not compare Avith those of Lincoln; 
and yet, Avitli all his honesty of purpose, ''graA^e and rcA^er- 
end'' Senators of his OAvn party considered the question of 
his impeachment. 

The stranger Avill find on the outskirts of Ncav England 
cities, through the enterprise of Uw trolley lines, places of 
amusement. For little expense, simply the car fare, he can 
take a delightful ride far into the country to some park 
in a lovely inland dale or along some riverside. Bangor 
is no exception. Four miles beloAv the city, on the banks 
of the Penobscot, the traction lines have laid out Riverside 
Park. The road Avinds along the river bank and through 
productiA'e farms. At the park an amphitheatre greets 
you, surrounded by beautiful shaded grounds. EA^ery af- 
tei'noon and e\'ening one can listen to some vaudeville en- 
tertainment. One can visit dilferent parks, but the ear- 
marks of other days Avill be on the programmes. The same 
old jokes Ave used to hear beating time along Coney's sandy 
shore we heard that afternoon resounding through the 
trees at RiAerside and echoing over the waters of the 
Penobscot. 

While Ave were in Bangor we visited the great lumber- 
ing plants and saAV the raw material converted into finished 
product. Logs that had made the trip doAvn the drive in 



k; 



WIIKKi: THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LIXdER. 



compaiiT — boon coinpaiiions, so to speak, possibly orowu 
up toiiotlier- — llo^v Avero wnitinii' for the buzz-saw, to pavt 
forever, and. as in tins lif(s one to reach no fai-tlier tlian 
the abode of tlie lowly, w liile its more fortnuate companion 
would ornament the home of the well-to-do. 




Bar Harbor Express, Maine Central Railroad. 



Everything Avas at hist in readiness for our departure. 
One morning bright and early we k^ft on the Bangor and 
Aroostook Eailroad for Mooseliead Lake, arriving at Kineo 
that afternoon. There the seeond guide, another Indian, 
joined us. Before our departure from l^angor we got the 
first glimpse of what was in store for us. A joA^ous lot of 
sportsmen Avere at the depot. Canoes Avere being loaded 
into baggage cars. The trucks Avere loaded Avitli bundles 



WHERE THE Sl'ORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



1 



of tents, beddinii' and the like — in fact, tlie canipinj:;- outfit 
of many a sportsman was piled here and there. Guns and 
fishing" rods Avere in evidence. Men, and ladies as well, in 
sporting' costume, were making ready for the start. AVhat 
a jolly ride it was from Bangor to Moosehead I The whole 




^■>:|spM!l| ^i 









my- 




Main Street, Bangor. 



atmosphere of the car was a tonic. What a contrast be- 
tween that train load of merry passengers and the anxious 
commuter on his way to the busy city, with its ''pace that 
kills.^' 

As one approaches IMoosehead Lake the grand view of 
the mountains and valleys of the Pine Tree State opens up 
before him, one unbroken foi'est as far as the eye can reach. 
We had often heard of the grandeur of Mount Kineo, but 



18 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



as T^'e rounded Deer Island the slight that met our view — 
the great bald mountain seemingly in the center of the 
lake, with the well-known hostelry and its cottages at its 
base — was l)eyond our expectations. We found the service 













Moosehead Lake Division, Bangor and Aroostnok 



.ad. 



of that famous resort equal to an^^ of the hotels along our 
coast. 

That night at Kineo Avas the last Ave Avere to spend for 
some time in a civilized abode. On the morrow Ave Avere 
to enter the vast Avilderness, the haunt of Avild ])easts, noth- 
ing betAveen us and the stars but a piece of canvas, and tlie 
ground for a bed. That night Aasions of Indians, bears, 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 19 

bull moose and the like were coiistautly before us. We 
could see ourselves Avounded aud uo physicians within a 
hundred miles; our canoes smashed, provisions gone, and 
perchance ourselves lost in the woods. How did we knoAV 
but that these Indian guides would scalp and rob us? We 




First View of Kineo. 

awoke with the feidiiig that we would prefer 'diome and 
motlier." A grand lake is ^Moosehead. Set in that wild 
and beautiful country, it is a picture l)(\yond the pen to 
describe. It is the largest lake in the ^State, and is tlie 
main artery, winter and sumuK^', to the lumbering camps 
of Maine. Annually millions of tons of provisions pass 
over it by steamer in summer and by sleigh in winter. On 
account of its rough Avaters the steamers, though small, 
have powerful enuines, and, we niight say, tiy over the lake, 



20 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



often luakiiii' the leiiiitli of the lake in less than two lionrs. 
While the lake is freezing over in the fall and breaking up 
in the spring the road along its shore is resorted to. In win- 
ter large limbs of the heniloek, with its evergreen, are set 
npright in the Ice and frozen-iu the whole length of the 





Boat Landing, Kineo. 



lake, making a marked driveway to guide the teamster who 
traA'els it. There is one ])e('uliariry of Moosclu^ad Lake 
that has not its like in the lakes of this eontinent : with its 
forty miles in length and four hnndred miles of water line, 
its inlet and ontlet are cm the same sid;- of the lake, not a 
mile apart. 

Early the next morning a special boat took ns to the head 
of the lake — Xortheast Carry. The day was l)right and 
beautiful; to the east Kig and Litth^ Spencer .Monntains 



WHERE THE SrOKTSMAN LOVES TO LINCJEK. 



21 



could be seen towering toAvard tlie sky, and off toward 
tlie uortlieast the luonarcli of tliem all, the landmark of 
Northern ]Maine, Old Katahdin. 

Arriving at Northeast Cai-ry^ the canoes, camii equipage 
and all v^eve cai'ted across the Carrv l)v a team belonaimr 




View from Tod of Kineo. 



to the prettily situated hotel at that place. It was two 
miles across the Carry to the West P>ranch of the Penob- 
scot. xVll our belongings, the guides and ourselves includcMl, 
were deposited on the bank of the stream, the team re- 
turning across the Carry and leaving ns alone in our glory. 
Everything in connection with our outfit seemed frail and 
small. The canoes that were to carry us and all our 
belongings over rocky rapids and across deep, boisterous 



22 



WllKKE THE .SPUKTS.MAX LOVES TO LINGER. 



lakes one of the ouides could })ic-k up w itli one hand and 
shoulder Avitli little effort. Tlie t(^nt^ our house, wliicli 
Avas to slielter us from the w iud and wcatlier, was a little 
bundle not lari^'er tlian a pillow, nor niueli heavier. 

Tlie i>'uides soon had tlie canoes loaiknl, and witli an In- 
dian in tlie stern of eacli, ]niddle in liand, tlie tiij) di)\vn the 




Northeast Carry, Moosehcad Lake 

AUaoash to the St. John, up the West Branch and dowu 
the East Branch of the Penobscot, was on. Aloni^- this 
four hundred miles of jungle one often sees the camps of 
the young- men who used to spend theii' vacations on the 
beach and in the ballroom, and generally returned home 
depleted in purse and in worse physical condition than 
wjien they left. One meets them at Kineo and Xorcross, 



WllKlMO THE sroKT^MA.N LONKS TO LlXdKU. L'-i 

retiiriiiiiji,' to tlie (•oiintinii-liousc dilTcrciit looking and fccl- 
ing- individuals lliau after tlu^ suinnicrs si)eiit at Cape May, 
Atlantic City, X(n\i>(H't and Old Orchard. 




Where the Sportsman Loves to Linger. 



24 WHERE THE SPOKTSMAX LOVES TO LIXCJEK. 



(^IIAPTEJl TI. 

FROM :\rr)osE[n:Ai> to cnEsrxrooK lake. 

OxeV' i'lrst ('\|M'ii('ii((' in -a cniKX' is -i feeling' of niiccr- 
taiiity, ('X])(M-tiiiu cNcrv iiiojiiciit lo Ik' upset and, <m account 
of its frailty, to sec it crnslicd like an c,m^ shell : yet a ca!io(» 
is as tonsil as a ]>nuilist trained foi- a ])rizc-ti,i:lit. It is snr- 
])risin!Li the rocks it can lam into and on {op of with nil any 
api)arent damage, an.d the heavy loads i' can carry. 

We were surprise(l and annised at a load the owner of 
a, liotel for lund)erinen, ten miles below the cai*ry, was pnt- 
tin,i»' into his canoe. The man himself weighed al least tlirc^e 
luindrcMl ])onnds, and he was loadini: the canoe with two 
barrels of kerosene. As he started away the canoe sank 
so deep in tlu^ water that it looked as if tw() keioseiie bar- 
rels and a fat man w(M'e tloatinii' on the sni-face. The fellow 
was so fat his ^liabi^as corpus" extended beyond tln^ canoe 
and hunij,' (tver the sides lik(^ the jowls of the ])i'ize porker 
at a county fair. About all you could see of the canoe was 
the ])oints at each end, remindinu' us of the jack trains in 
tlie ininiuii' r(\iiions of Colorado as we have seen them cooing 
up the mountain trail loaded with provender and material 
for the mines above. Al)out all you could see of the jacks 
were their ears. 

The canoe and bat(^au are the means of transportation 
over the rivers and smaller lakes of Maine. Thev eorre- 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 25 

spond \\'itli tlie depot \\'ajj;on and the lieavj truck. The 
smooth, symmetrical canoe is to the rough, ill-shaped ba- 
teau as the sleek, handsomely formed deer is to the un- 
gainly moose. Along the ))anks of the rivers of Maine are 
roads cut through the timber for hauling provisions dur- 
ing the Avinter to sporting and lumber camps; in fact, you 







Northeast Carry, West Branch. 

will see them cut tlirough the wooded wilderness in eveiy 
direction. Thev tell us snow falls to the depth of seven 
feet on the level. In truth of that one often sees stumps, 
w^e might say, eight to ten feet in height, showing Avhere 
the w^oodtdiopper stood on the snoAV when he felled the tree. 
At one time they lumbered in Avinter only; uoav the AA-ood- 
chopper's axe can be heard the year I'ound. 



2(> WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 

The AVest Brancli at Northeast Carry is a slu<»«;ish, deep 
stream, about two hundred feet in widrlh The water 
courses of ^[aine are eitlier (h^ad water, (juick water, rap- 
ids or falls. Wliat nicest strikes the tenderfoot as he em- 
barks on one of tln^se canoe tri])s is the utter sih'me of that 
vast rei^ion. The canoe cuts the water witli hardly a ri])- 
ple, and the paddling' is as (piiet as the ^i-ave. Though the 
dense juniiile tliat lines the i-ivei-s and encom]>asses the 
lakes is inhai»ited every sipiare mih' by wild beasts, yet 
all is still, 'i'he y(;nii,iLi' Jtre taniiht tliat silence is golden. 
Even tlie breakinij^ of a twiii' mi^lit lead to instant death. 
No bleat inu' of tlie calf for its mother, ncn- i'i<-r rcrsa. An 
old cow in a town barn makes more noise than all the i;ame 
in the State of Elaine. 

We had iionf^ down the st7-(^am al)out a cou])l(^ of miles 
when, roundinii; a bend in the rixcr, one of the snides 
called our attention to \\hat attpeared to be a red bnsh, 
but was in reality a deer. Durinii what is known as the 
'Sdosed season" the uame is very tame. Stand inii; on the 
bank of the stri^am with a little fawn, it watidied us as we 
passed. Wliat a shot it would have been! On account of 
the frequcMit canoes passinii" betw(M'n Northeast Cai-ry and 
Chesuncook Lake it is risky business to sn])])ly your larder 
with deei' meat durinu:,- the (dosed season, but the oppor- 
tunities Ave had that day were very tantalizinii'. We were 
informed by the ouides that when we reached Chur(diill 
Lake Ave would then be safe to toy with venison, so we 
anxiously looked forward to our arrival there. 

While comino- up the lake from Kineo we ^^fell in" with 
a friend we had met abroad, who spends a month or two 
every summer on Lobster Lake. He claimed there Avas no 
more l)eautiful body of water in this or foreij^n lands, and 
prevailed upon us to make the side tidp into Lobster. Al- 



WHERE THE SroUT^SMxVN LUVE.S TO LINGER. 



27 



th<)ui;li it took two hours of the day, ^nu were rewarded 
witli seeing- a lake that was the cap-sheaf of them all. Lob- 
ster Lake is the ideal si)ot for the business man who, while 
enjo} inii the wilds of the woods, wishes to be at the same 
time in touch w ith his business, as it is only a two hours' 
l>addle — all dead water — from Lol>ster Lake to Nortlieast 
Carry, with its long-distance t(dephone and postoffice. 




tSenior AKmber of the Transportation Company, Bateau and Canoe. 

Lol)st(T Lake eoml)ines the beauties and grandeur of all 
tlie other lakes of the State. Wide, sandy b(\n;hes skirt 
its shores, affording, from what we saw tliat day, a race- 
track for tlie ]nany fleet-footed deer that visit it. Higli, 
rocky cliffs, wonderful in formation, prot(H-t safe liarbors 
with bcniutiful camping grounds. Unsur])asse(l mountain 
scenry surrounds it. Nature so placcMl it that the higlu^st 
mountains in the State, the mighty Katahdiu, the Spencers 
and others, look down upon it. 



28 WHERE TITE SPORTS:\rAX LOVES TO LINGER. 

Tlie artist lias his iiiaster])ie(o, tlie autlior iiis favorite 
production, and if one sliould ask tli(^ Cremator of the inland 
waters of tlie State of :\[aine His ideal, the answer no doubt 
would be Lobster Lake. 

rominf]^ back throuj^h Lobster outlet we noticed the work 
of the l)eavers. The stream was lined with their favorite 
food, tlie poplar. Their work is almost human. Tt is won- 
derful wliat larae trees they p:naw tln'ou^li, selectinii' those 
that lean towards the water and will fall therein. AV(^ no- 
ticed one tree ])artiall\' gnawed throuuh. Wo sto]iped and 
examined it. The Avork sinewed that it had been done Aveeks 
before. The Indians said, ''Tree no fall into the water." 
What knowledii'e Avas thei-e ! Tlu^ beaver, as is often the 
case with the woodchop])er, saw that his time would be 
wasted. After the trees are fallen th(^ beaver ""naws off 
the limbs, sinks them to the bottom, and in the winter time, 
when the stream is frozen ov(M', ^Fr. Beaver enjoys his daily 
meal of the, to them, luscious bark of the ])o])la]'. lie secMiis 
to know the rainy day will come, and provides for it, 
tlier(^by showing more sense than nuiny a two-legged 
animal. 

Just before we came to Moosehorn, a stream that emp- 
ties into the West Branch from the south, we saw our first 
moose. lie Avas fin^ding on his favorite food, the roots of 
the lily pad. He paid but little attention to us. II(^ was 
standing in the water, belly deep, Avitli head stibmerged 
half the time in search of his favorite dish. As there Avas 
a spring near the mouth of the Moosehorn, and as the noon 
hour had passed, lunch suggested itself. The canoes were 
headed for the bank, a fire soon started, and, Avith the 
Kineo Indian as head chef, the first meal on our long trip 
Avas soon l)efore us. 

From Xorth.east Carrv to ]\roosehorn the West Branch 



WHKIU: TIIK SPOUTSMAX [.OVKS TO lix(;er. 



21) 



flows slnoj^islily on its course. Tlie i^nides iiifoniKMl us 
tliat the next ton miles, from .A[oos(^liorn to Cliesuneook 
Lake, we won Id iivt a tast(^ of rongli water, and, snre 
enonoh, tlie first f)end in the ri\-er disclosed foam and rocks. 
The river became sliallow and rapid, and rocks poked their 




They Watched Us as We Passed. 



heads tliron^li tlie stream in every direction. The i>uides 
stood np, substitntino- poles for ]>addk^s. It was wonderful 
with what skill they handled the canoes in the onrushino: 
waters and among the oreat boulders. Time and aoain it 
looked as if we were lioing' headlong into a rock, but a jab 
of the pole would turn the canoe into the channel again. 
Thus the dreaded Fox Hole, Rocky Rips and Pine Stream 
Falls were safelv run. 



30 



WHERE TIJE SPORTSMAN LOVES "rO LINGER. 



Six o'clock foiuid US on the lica;! waters of Cliesuiicook 
Lake. As tlie davli^^lit that was left before the settiiii;' of 
the sun Avoukl be needed to prepare for eanip, and as just 
below riue Sti-eaiii i'alls was a beaulil'ul caiii}»iiiu i^i-ound, 
the canoes ^^(M•e Iieaih'd for Hie slioi-c, s;)n:i unb)aded 



w^^^f^^r*'- "" 










^^^^H^' 










^^^SjP'' 










0t 










^^J^J^^ 










B 




n 


^■ri 


m 


'^|H^ -^-v 


- - -^ 








W' 




\-^ 






-■-**. 








■ il 


is^i^i^.* ^ 


. - . 


^•». 


'-/•*--^ >' -.. ■ 





Lobster Lake. 



and their contents cai-ried onto the hij^li l»ank, the canoes 
thenis(dves beinii; turned upside down a short distance from 
the water. A dense jungle was on three sides of us. Poetry 
and ])rose have vied with each other in deijicting the pleas- 
ures of canipiuiLi out. Friends have gone into ecstasies 
over it, but we a})])roached the moment more Avith dread 
tlian i)leasure. Tlie small heap that lay befoi-e us that was 
to protect our inner and outer man seemed entii-ely inade- 



WIIEKE THE SPOirrSMAX LOVES TO LINCJEK. 31 

qua to. AMlh interest we watched the Indians convert our 
small belongings into an imposing array. 

AMth axes they disa})i>ea]-ed into the jungle, soon appear- 
ing witli forks and pok'S. The forks Avere driven into the 
ground, the poles laid across, the tents unfolded, thrown 
OAer the poles and tightened down. We had four tents, 
one for each of us, one for the Indians, and a toilet tent. 
The balance of our belongings Avere carried into the re- 




spective tents. A fireplace was next selected, a fork on 
each side and a pole across, back and end logs secured, and 
hangers — a small forked stick Avith a nail in one end — Avere 
hung across the pole, a proper distance from the fire. On 
the hangers are hung the p<»ts and k(^ttles. One of the most 
important adjuncts of a camping outfit is a 'H^aker,'' a pciu- 
liarly construct(Ml piece of tiuAvare. We enjoyed many a 
hot biscuit from our little baker. 

The Indians again disappeared into the Avoods, this time 
to return Avith boughs for our beds; armful after armful 
they brought and entwined, until the softest, cleanest and 
most invitinii' bed was before us. FircAvood Avas next pro- 



32 WIIKRE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LIXCER. 

cured. Along the sliore lino of all tlio lakes of Maine dry 
wood aliounds, cast there by tlie ravages of time. The win- 
ter and Slimmer storms and high Avater play havoc with 
the tindjer along tlu^ shores of the lakes; conseqmMitly, no 
matter where you camp, dry wood is there — not a i)unky. 
rotten log, hut Avood as ''sound as a dollar" and '"dry as a 
bone/' and of all sizes, ready to cook your daylight meal 
and for the cani])dire in the stilly night. 

Of all the lii-ew(h)(l for the caniju'r, the most necessary 
is the bark of the birch; without that, many a cold meal 
A\'oul(l lia\(' liecn eaten and many a caiii]>-lire nev(4' lighted. 
Xo matter what the w(vitlier conditions, the birch bark will 
l)urn. It is easily secured ; \\ ith a ''ri]) up the back'' it read- 
ily peals from the tree, and is as inllammable as kerosene. 
The guid(>s soon had amjtle lirewood in si oik, and tli(Mi they 
attacked the boxes and bags of ])r()visi()ns. In making a 
canoe trip oik* is naturally ex])osed to all kinds of weather, 
so your ])r(»visi()ns are ]uicked with that contingency in 
view. Anything that water would injure is protected by 
Avater]>roof matcM-ial. Sugar, tea, coffee and the like are 
put up in little waterproof bags, which are then put in a 
larger bag. In our long ti-i]> bags of ])rovend(^r fell into 
the water ^^ ithout any a])parent damage to their contents. 

A well-cooked, bcmntiful meal was soon at our dis])Osal, 
and as the sun sank amidst the dense forest the camp-tire 
was lighted. Around the camp-tires on our long trip the 
Indians interested and amused us with reminiscences of 
their Ha'cs. In the streams and woods the Great Spirit 
provided OATrything for them. The Avild aninuils gaA^e him 
rations and raiment. From the bark of the birch tree he 
made his canoe; Avith the bow, arrow and tomahaAAdv he 
procured his game; from friction he obtained fire; from 
bark and poles he made his house; herbs Avere his medicine; 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



33 



and, with tlie money and servant question obliterated, a 
liappv and contented life he led. We never heard our 




West Braucli Above Moosehorn. 

guides telling- about their ''old man" having to go to a sani- 
tarium for nervous prostration, nor walking the floor 



ol WHERE THE ;SPUliTSMAN LOVES TO LINCiEU. 

nights on account of the note due at the bank on the mor- 
row ; nor did they have any recollections of hearing their 
mother discuss with other squaws about ^'my operation'' ; 
nor did they remember in their papoose (Uiys of having 
been introduced to ^Irs. AN'inslow or .Mr. l*aregoric. 

Upon our arrival at Chesuncook Ave already began to feel 




West Branch Below Moosehorn. 



the delightful effects of the change. He who continually 
lives along the coast line knowelli not tlie beneht of the 
woods of Miiine. Tlie Avord liumidity is not in tlie bright 
lexicon of tlie Pine Tre(^ State. Poor appetite has no abode 
there. Indigestion is a stranger in the land. Stomachs 
that rel)elled are forgiven and forgotten. Xervousness 
soon seeks other cliiiu^s. Imaginary evils vanish into thin 
air. AMiat seem mountains elsewhere to the tired brain 



WHERE THE SI'OIITSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 35 

become nioleliills. ]\[orbid tlu)iii;lits give way to pleasant 
retlectious. The iuward antipathy hidden by outward cour- 
tesy of man towards man resolves itself into the true Chris- 
tian spirit. Woman's jealousy of woman has no abiding- 
place in the woods of Elaine. Tlie struggle for worldly 
goods that is driving many business men to the asylum 
and penitentiary ceases for the time being. In fact, the 
surroundings there give one that (piiet repose that enables 
vou to see this life as it should be seen. 



36 wiiKKE Tin: spoktsmax loves to lixcer. 



niAPTEU TIT. 

CIIKSr.XCOOK TO IMSASKIS LAKH. 

FRA(fRAX('i: from liciulock boiiiilis must be a panacc^a for 
insomnia, as tlic niiilit j)ass('(l mid jdcasaiil dreams. I'or 
breakfast wr had some delicious troiil cauLilil in tlie early 
morn by one of llie Indians. The teided liebl of the niiilil 
l)(^foi'(\ \\ith ail oiii- beloni^lniLrs, was l()ade(l into Ihe canoes, 
and ^\•e stai-led on a day's jonrney in \vhi<li before niuhl- 
fall we v.-ei-e 1o exjterience all ihe \ai-ielies of canoeim^ 
through the wilds of .Maine. 

An i!oni''s ]>addlin!^' on Ihe headwalei-s of (liesuncook 
I.nke bronidd ns lo Ihe lake ]»i'o])ei'. The lake lay in the 
sonth of us, and olt to the southeast old I\atahdin loomed 
skvward. At the little settlement at the head (»f the lake 
^\■as a |M)stoflic(s the last until we ari'iv(Ml at Connors, on 
the St. John, one hundred and 1wentydi\'e nnles further 
north. Our coui-se lay across the head of the lake to th(^ 
moutli of T^'mbazooksus stream. The canoeman ^cts lots of 
experience lioin^ u]) T^nd)azooksus stream to a lake of the 
same mime. The first six miles is nari-ow, A\indinu' an<1 
mu(bly; the last three shallow and rocky, wla^re one lias to 
don rublxT boots and lead the canoe. 

I'nd)a/ooksus Lake is situateil iu a country wild with 
seeuic beauty. Across the foot of it our course lay to some 
sportino- camps near the famous Mud P(ui<l Tarry. :\rud 



\\'iii:i{i: TiiK sroirrsMAx lovks to linger. o( 

Pond CaiTv, v/hicli is two miles ](m*x, crosses tlie vertebrje 
of the Htate of ^Maine. It is on the watershed. It was 
rainino- when we crossed it, and stopping for a moment on 
its apex, Ave saw tlie rain drops elioos(^ their conrse, biildimi: 
each other liood-bye, some to follow the Allagash and 




Chesuncook Lake. 

the St. John, otliers the West Branch and the main 
Penobscot, to meet, perchance, ai^ain among the "sad sea 
waves." 

On the shore of :\[nd Pond we ate our noondav meal. 
]\[nd Pond is an nninviting body of water — that is, to man, 
but not to the ungainly moose. It is shallow and abounds 
with lily pads, in consequence of which it is surrounded 
by a great moose country. From our noonday camp we 
counted nine moose, some far from the shore, with their 



38 \viii:ke the spuktsman loves to lix(jeii. 

lieads half of the time imder the water seekin<»' tlie roots 
of tlie siiecnkmt lily pad. Our coiirse lay across the pond 
to its outlet, wliicii ('i]i]>ties into the second largest lake 




Mud Pond Carry 



in Maine — Cliand)erhiin. AVe found the outlet of Mud 
Pond sinular to the last half of Umbazooksus stream. 

As Ave entered ChandK^rlain Lake its Avaters Avere calm, 
A\diich fact the Indians said Avas somew hat unusual. Our 
course lay across the lake and up its eastern shore to ( 1iam- 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



39 



berlain daiii, wliicli we liopiMJ to reach in time to eamp for 
the nij^ht. Unfortunately for us, when halfway aeross the 
wind began to blow, and continued to increase until a high 
sea was running. Being anxious to get across as soon as 
possible, w(^ took our iirst lesson in paddling, and were* 




Mud Pond. 

surprised how soon A^'e caught on. AVater continually 
swashed into the boats, giving evcuwthing a good wetting. 
AVe finally got under the protection of the eastern shore 
and slowly worked our way up the lake to Chamberlain 
dam. The clouds began to lift and Old Sol came out, 
shoAving that we had an hour before sundown to pitch our 
tents. Plere we met quite a party of New Yorkers, among 
whom were several ladies, on their way back from Church- 
ill Lake to Kineo. Here for the first time we heard of 
what is called Chase's Carry, which we afterward 
learned was the worst piece of water run by eanoemen in 



40 wiiiiRi: Tin-: spoirrsMAX love.s to lin(;i:k. 

the State. Having- tired of fisli and ''embaliiied meat," we 
Avere anxious to ])usli on to (liurehill Lake, wliere, the 
liuides informed us, we conhl try our hick with our shoot- 
in^ii-irons. 

Tlie next day wo passed down ( 'handiorhnn outlet to 
I']a,iile Lake, tlirouizli tlio tliorouizhfare between ICaiih' and 
diurehill, and kite in the afternoon we ])itcli(Ml our tents 
within hearinii' of tlie roar of Cliase's Carry. We iuf(n'ni('d 
tlie uui(h^s tliat we wouhl tarry a (hiy or two on diurclnll ; 
so tliey set to woi-k and ari'aiiLicd a cam]* wilh that i(U'a in 
view, and a most comfortable one tliey stak(Ml out. Tlie 
li'ame at that time of the year is veiy tame, and, the J)octor 
beint»" a liood shot, A\'e could already see a juece of juicy 
N'cnison in Hie fryinii' ]»;in. 

^\'e were amused while in cam]) at dunnberlain dam, 
where there Avas a watchman statioiUMl to s(H' that no one 
distnrbe([ tli(^ ♦jj.ates. He had the usual characteristics of 
ni^ht watchmen, for when nii^htfjill came he retired to his 
tent and 'pciicefully snored the niiiht away. 

AVhile we were in cai!i)> on (1uimb(Thiin outlet we met 
two ii'ame wardens with a prisoner on the way to T'oxcroft. 
Any one who slu)ots deer out of season and pai-takes there- 
of wants to ho careful when stran<i(4's come around. It 
seems that this feilow was cam]>inir on Eatile Lake and 
living', as General Sherman did when marchinii' throui;h 
(leoruia, on the fat of the land. The li'ame wardens heard 
of the gentleman and mad(^ him a visit und(T the guise of 
sports. He invited them to <line, and had (Umm- on tln^ bill of 
fare, Avith the result that he contributed fifty dollars to 
the exchequer of the State, and in consideration of his 
kindness the State insisted on his being it^s guest for thirty 
days in order that he might study the beauties of the elev- 
enth commandment. 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 41 

The g"()vernin,i>' power acts the coward towards the Beef 
Trust, but it sets the mlDions of tlie hiw on the trail of the 
poor o'liide wlio, witli his hard- work in 2; helpmate, is trying 
to make a living from his sporting canij). 

While passing through Eagle Lake we visited the tram- 




way, a ^'moving sidewalk/" constructcMl through the woods 
from ]^]agle to (1iamb(^rlain Lakes. The wat(TS in Eagle 
Lake tlow toward the St. John and on through N(nv Bruns- 
wick to the sea. The trauiway enables the lumbermen on 
r^agle Lake to tloat their logs via Chamlx^rlain and the 
East Branch to the mills on the Penobscot, thereby avoid- 
ing a Canadian tax. 

As one traverses the woods of .AFaine he is often reminded 
of In^gone days by the immense rotting stumps of the for- 



42 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LIXCJER. 



nicr iiionai'chs of tlie woods, tlie pine trees. One occiision- 
ally lies with its full len^iitli on the i;i*onn(l, covered with 
moss, one of those uianis left for some cause hy the wood- 
choppers. Xo other lind)er in the wood.s did or ever will 
e(|ual the proportions of the ])ine. They seemed to have 




We Were Within a Canoe's Length < ; Th:.-^ d iitl. man. 

lived in the ai>e of human .liiants and the animals aud 
fish of biblical times, and in the days when the giant 
angler, 



'•His angle rod made of sturdy pine, 
With a cable, that storms ne'er broke, for a line; 
His hook he baited with a dragon's tail. 
And sat on a rock and bobbed for a whale." 



WHERE THE SrORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



43 



We found many inaccuracies in maps and descriptions 
as publislied. Among other things, maps show a dam and 
a carry between Cliurchill and Umsaslvis Lakes, to this day 
called (.'hase's Cari'y. There was at one time a dam there, 
but there lias not been for, lo! these nian^^ years. A 




The Greed of the Beef Trust Drives a Fellow to This. 

dam was a long time ago constructed on the Allagash be- 
low Churcliill Lake to raise tlie Avater of Eagle, but some 
of the boys in the lumbv^r l)usiness on the lower Allagash, 
being short of water to tloat their logs, sneaked up the 
river one night and in the dark of the moon d^mamited the 
dam, wliicli Avitli a crash disappear*ed from the Allagash, 
l)ut seemingly not from maps and literature. 

The mwt morning, halving th(^ guides at home, ^\o took 
a walk down the lake. Rounding a point, Ave saAv, feeding. 



u 



WIIKUK THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LIXGEll. 



some (listaiico aloiio- the sliore, a red objcM-t we had seen 
so many times before. Tlie wind was in onr favor, enabling 
ns to bring tlieyoniig bnek, as he ]»i()ved to be, within easy 
range. It is surprising liow suspicions tliey are, forever 
looking around while feeding, their heads constantly going 
u]) and down, always on the alert. Something wonderful 




The Author Supplying the '"Meat Market." 

is tluM'r seuse of smell aud hearing. It must have heard 
us, and suddenly turned, facing us. The time had come, 
and with a roar that sounded over the lake like a cannon 
the object of our aim dro])ped, then arose and ran down 
the shore of the lake. One often hears the assertion that 
a shot throngh the heart nunins instant death, but that 
animal ran (nic liuiidred yards sliot tlirougli the heart. We 
retnriHMl to 1he cam]> f(M- a canoe, and, witli tlie Doctor as 



WIIKKi: TIIK SPOKTSMAX LOVICS TO LIXCJER. 



4i 



chief suriieon, the tenderloin and hind(|narters were soon 
hanging on a tree a short distance froin tlie camp. Meat 
in that higli, drv atmospliere soon cnres. ^'Sports" keep 




The Doctor Performing t!i 



the ''meat market'' some distance from the camp, as the 
law requires yon to be caught with the ''goods on." The 
bill of fare for the next two days consisted of "tenderloin 
of buck a la Churchill Lake." One day we spent in the 
woods successfully hunting partridges. 



40 



\viii:iii: TriK sportsman loves to linger. 



DuriDu- our stay on (Miiircliill we visited the cam]) of 
Senator (}ui\y on Spidei- Lak(\ A ilioroii-iifare from 
Cliureliill leads to Spider. The cam]) was dosed. What 
a contrast between tliat l)eaiitiful lake, siinated in one of 
the most atlracti^'e s]>ots for a sportsman in Maine, and 
the (\ipit(d at Wasliinoton! As we sat on the Senator's 
I>iazza, hi-ercthin^ in the (h'licions fra-i'aiice of the trees 
that sni-ronnded it and loekinu over the clcai- and h>vely 
lake, we conld not help Init think ^^•hal fools men are when 
they ha\-e accnmnlated suflicient woi-hlly i;(»ods to sacri- 
fice th(Mr healtli for moi-e. To i-etaiii tl-c power I lie Sen- 
ator had in the Slate of rennsylvania, and to kee]) in 
tcnnli with his h(Michmen, the days of midsnmmer fonnd 
him in the hot city, instead of enjoymi: that co(d an<l 
liealthy spot. It does seem that, like women for social 
standing:, men will foi- wealth and i»ower saci'itice ev(M-y- 
tliinii'. If tlie Seiiaioi' had sjient more time on S])idei- Lake 
and less in A\'as]iim:ton he wonld haxc liNcd lon^ci- to en- 
joy what it had been his o()o(i fortnne to accumulates hut, 
like the AVall Street ]nani])ulator, the tlckei- was his life. 

The dread of Chase's Cariw hei^an to keei» us awake, 
so we broke cam]) and started down the loni: lagoon that 
leads to the commencement of the Alla^ash. 

If any one wants to .i:et his mind off his business, we will 
iiuarantee, when he is uoinu" down the Alla.uasli fi-om 
diurchill, no matter what his occujiation, he will be think- 
ing" of nothiu'i- but rocks. We doubt if that eleven miles 
has its equal for wildiu'ss in the State (►f Maine. Tow(M-ing 
banks, with dense jun.uhs are on both si(b's; immense trees 
lean over the stream as if to ^rab you. The current runs 
like a mill race; lireat boulders are everywhere, alouj^side 
of you, under you, and you are lueky if some do not get 
on to]3 of you. The channel, if there is one, is narrow^ and 



WHEKE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



47 



coustautly circling around and among iiuge boulders, iii'st 
on one side of the river and then on the other ; in the middle 
and then where the onrushing \>'aters take you. Canoes 
are constantly being swamped. Along the bottom of the 
river one catches glimps(^s of bakers, tin cans, kettles, bags 




The End of Chase's Carry. Au RLVoir. 



of provisions — in fact, all kinds of camp ec^uipage lost t)y 
unfortunate canoemen. Some day Chase's Carry will be 
worked to good advantage, as there is lots of pay dirt 
deposited tliere and more being constantly added. 

The day we made the run was dark and lowering. We 
had worked our way down stream not more than a mile, 
when the elements concluded they would take a hand in 
the game and opened with one of the worst thunder show- 
ers we ever passed through. The rain came in torrents 



48 WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LIXCER. 

and tlie ]ii>]itiiiii,i;' was a hair-raiser. Tlironuli it all the 
faithful liuides stood their around, pole in hand, miidins: 
us safely throuiih the tr(\aeherous channc^ls. As Ihe dai-k- 
ness passed away and the sun shonc^ foi-th w(^ dro])])(Ml 
into Unisaskis dead water, eompletinii the ^^■ildest ride 
on the entire^ trip. A\'e w(^re di-enched to the skin and were 
half scared to death alonii; the whole eleven miles. Chase's 
Carry and the headwater's of T^insaskis Lake are sini])ly a 
repetition of this lifis do not falter when the tui: comes, as 
come it will, but brace against it, as there is always (piiet 
NN'aters bevond. 



WHERE TriE SP()RTS:\IAN LOVES TO LINGER. 49 



CHAPTER IV. 

rivrsASKis lake to fort kent. 

In all sta*»'('8 of dcM-ay lumber camps are found along the 
rivers and on tlie shores of the lakes of Maine. We found 
the old cedar shingles of the roof of one of the buildings 
nearby wher(^ we campcMl verv desirable firewood. We 
stayed on Umsaskis two days, our time bc^ng occupied dry- 
ing our clothes. A kee|)(T once wrote on the door at Sing 
Sing Avhere ])risoners first enter, ^Mle who enters here 
leave hope behind.'' Tlu^ sj^ortsman who enters the woods 
of ]\Iai]ie should leave cotton goods at home. Every article 
of clothing should be wool. Strong, common-sense shoes 
and moccasins should be the footwear; a pair of rubber 
boots would not come amiss. ]More than once, after a good 
drenching, our woolen clothes saved us from catching cold. 
J\rany times we have taken off our moccasins, emptied out 
the water, wrung out our woolen socks, and put the same 
socks and moccasins on again, with no bad results. 

On the second day of our stop on Umsaskis we saw a 
battle royal between two bull inoose. Coming from oppo- 
site dircM-tions, they nu^t at the lake side, not far from our 
cami). They locked horns, shoving (^acli other up and down 
the beach, paying no attention whatever to us. After 
smashing all the dry-ki and overturning every stone within 
a radius of a hundred feet, on(\ (widentlv haviuir enouiih. 



no 



WIIi:iJJ-: TIIK .SPOKTS.MAX LOVKS TO LIXCKU. 



])liuii;('(l into tlic Jake and swani for llie opposite shore. 
The other stood lookinii;- at liini, and, as tlie victor turne<l 
to <^o into the woods, lie stopped for a moment viewin^ii" onr 
(•ami), Jis if to say, ''W(d], l)oys, I made him take water/' 
On the afternoon of tlie same (hiy we saw I lie most lauiih- 




Betwecn Umsaskis and Loiisi; Lakes. 

able incident tliat occuri-ed on oui- ti-ip. Our tents were 
pitched (m hiiili i^i-onnd, a sli(n-t distance fi-om the lake. 
The woods had l.ccn cicaicd away in fi-ont. There was a 
small island a short distance off shore, ^^e noticed several 
moose here and tliere in the water. One was well ont in 
the lake and gradually workinii his way to onr camp, his 
head hein.u' nnder water half of the time after the roots of 
the lily pad. He kept on coming nearer and nearer, evi- 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN L()^■ES TO LINGER. 



51 



clently not seeing us. He uo doubt had traveled the same 
route before. He finally caught sight of the camp, stood 
for a moment looking at those white objects with the dark 
woods as a background, became frightened, whirled and 
started for the island, disappearing therein, ])ut in a few 




The Winding Allagash. 

moments reappeared and plunged into the water, with two 
more moose Avith liim, all striking out for the opposite 
shore. One could imagine that as soon as he struck the 
island the other moose had asked what Avas up, and he no 
doubt replied, ^* Don't ask me any quc^stions, ])ut run for 
your life.'' Two other moose, Avho had been feeding well 
out in the lake, saAV the rush coming, and they, too, Avere 
stampeded, and tlie Avhole bunch Avere still on the lope as 
they disappeared in tlie tim])er. 



,y2 WUVAiV. TIIK SPORTSMAN Tj)\i;s TO li.\(;er. 

rassiiiii' out of riiisaskis Lak{^ and tliroui^li tlio tlioroniih- 
far(% ono enters Loiii;' Lake, tlie last lakc^ on tlie Alla<iasli 
trip. Years a^ii'o, on account of a love affair, one Priestly 
sought an isolated ahode. Tie came to Lonii- T.ake, on the 
Alla<iasli. As years lolled on lie cleared up (piile a farm. 




Allasash Falls. 



Tlie fai-m ^^as houulit Ity one llai'vcy, wlio also cvidcnlly 
preferred isolation. Sportsmen often stopi)ed at tlic ])Iace, 
some of Avliom had heen swam])ed in (1ias(^V Carry, llar- 
yoy established a su})]ily depot, toiinu' tlie sn]>]»li('s fi-oni 
Canada dui-inii" the winter. Our sn]»ply of suiiar Iiavinn: 
heen waterlouiicd in Chase's Carry, we wei-e ulad that 
Pri(*stly had h^en discarded hy one of tlie ^^('aker sex, as 
it (Miahled us to sui)])ly ou]- larder at Dcjjot h'arm. 

All day lonji' w(^ glided down tlu^ rapid, rocky Avaters of 
the windini;- Allaji,ash, seeing deer and moose at every turn, 



WHERE THE SIH)RT8MAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



)3 



eatiii2^ our lunch as Ave floated over the only dead water on 
tlie ri^er, and as twilii^ht was castinij^ its shadows across 
the stream Allaj^ash Falls was reached, near which we 
pitclnMl our tents. 

The only shM'pless ni^>;ht on the whole trip we passed at 
AUa^ash Falls. It seems the Allauasli loi>- drive failed to 
i^et throuiih, and loi^s were scattered alonii' the river from 
l{<mnd Fond to tlie St. Jolm. Fxdow Allagash Falls the 
river was full of them, except a narrow channel for canoes. 




The Little Fawn We Saved. 



xVbout midnij^ht we awoke, heariuij^- a sound like that of a 
cryiiJii' ])aby; whenever the wind blew the sound of tlie 
falls away we could lu^ar the cry. Sometimes it Avould 
sound like a child and then like a calf. At the break of 
day we dressed, still hearing- the same little wail. It 
sounded amom;- the loi>s. The Indians were already up 
and we called their attention to it. Too ether ^ye investi- 
gated, and tluTe in the Avatc^r, between some logs, was a 
little fawn. One of the Indians said at dusk the night be- 
fore he had seen a doe crossing the logs, f(dlowed by a faAvn. 
The little fellow had evidently fallen in and was nearly 



54 WHERE THE SrOKTSMAX LOVES TO L1N(;EU. 

chilled to death. The inothei- was nowhere iu sight. We 
carried the poor thinly;- up to the camp, rubbed it dry and 
fed it some condensed milk and hot water. It became a 
passenger on our tri]) as far as Connors, where we gaAX^ it 
away. We stopped at a farndiouse a few miles below tlie 




The AUagash Entering the St. John. 

falls, obtained some cow's niilk, and fortnnately a rubber 
nipple, and our little charge had its rations early and 
often and seemed to enjoy our society. 

On the menu card at Allagash Falls Avas ^^fruit in sea- 
son." Forest fires had left great tracts of timber land 
along the Allagash l)ai'e and desolate; acres of red rasp- 
berry bushes had grown thereon, and the fruit was ri])e 
Avhile we were there. 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



55 



Anion^' the tr()i)liies we gathered on our trip, a bear pelt 
we ol)tained at Allagash Falls Ave prize above all others. 
While the Kiueo ludiau was gettino- the noonday meal the 
Bangor guide Avent in search of raspberries. He had been 
gone about half an hour, Avhen Ave heard a shot, the groAvl 




Taking-Out Place— Connors. 

of an animal and the Indian crying for help. We all 
started in tlie direction of the noise, but neglected to take 
our guns. TJje cook, Avho Avas cleaning fish at the time, 
had a knife in his hand, and fortunately took it with him. 
The Kineo Indian told us as Ave ran, tumbling OA-er logs 
and liiid)s, that it Avas undoubtedly a bear. It seems a 
large-sized she bear Avas also hunting berries, and the guide, 
getting sight of her, sneaked up to close range and fired. 
Unfortunately he had but one cartridge; the shot only 



5(1 \vhi:kk the sportsman lovks to itx(;ku. 

woimded and iiifurintcMl the animal, wlio niadc^ for tlii^ In- 
dian. He ]iad no moans of defense exct^)! a clnb, and wlien 
w(^ arrived the Indian and bear were having a roni»h-and- 
tnnd)le fii>lit anions' tlie brnsli. first tlie lu'ar on top and 
tlien the Indian. Tlie Kineo Indian, knife in hand, jumpcnl 



:^ 



w^rBfe- 






Connors, N. B. 



into the frav, and soon poor brnin was dead. The Bangor 
Indian's arms were feai'fnlly lacerated, i)nttinu him ont 
of commission. He was nnable to paddle, and we fonnd 
onrselves the next (hiv <ioinii- down the Allaiiash with the 
stern paddle in hand. If it were not that the Kineo In- 
dian knew every foot of the river and took the lead, Ave 
would have been in the water more times than in the canoe. 
While runnino- Twin Krook rapids our heart and Adanfs 
appk^ Avere holdinc; close communion. 



WHERE THE SPORTS MAX LOVES TO LINGER. 



Oi 



At noon we ran Xiui^cr liiook ra])i<ls and entered tlie 
Valley of tlie St. John, one of the i^randest river valleys 
in North America. Fonr o'clock that afternoon fonnd ns 
at the hotel at ( 'onnor-s, New Brunswick, sending' telegrams 




The Kineo Indian and the Author. 



to anxious friends, reading letters and newspapers, in an 
endeavor to catch up with the world. 

Camping out is no doubt great, but it was a delightful 
change from eating your meals in the wilds of the Allagash 



58 WHERE THE SPOKTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 

on a bare table while sitiiui;- at an ani»le of fortv-tive de- 
grees, with an Indian as chief cook and bottle-washer, who 
never could be hung for his cleanliness, to the dining-room 
of the Hotel New Brunswick. It seemed good to get our 
legs again under the nmhogany of a hotel dining-room. 
Ilow sweet the clean linen and the neatly dressed waiter 
gilds looked to us. 

TJie menu card contained all the a])i)etite could crave; 
the viands were well cooked and ser\e(l to the (|ueeirs 
taste. What a i)leasure sitting in the rotunda of the hotel 
in a comfoi'table chair, smoking your favorite brand. 1 low 
inviting was a ])oi-c('Iain bathtub, with ils necessary side- 
partner. \\'hat a ''difference in the morning" between the 
easy chair of a whitc^-coated tonsorial artist to having your 
neck stretched over a slumj), with a clumsy Indian bran- 
dishing a dull razor in close ])roximity to your jugular. 

It was Saturday when we arrivetl at Connoi-s; we 
thought it was Sunday. (Jreatly to our disgust, anger and 
mortihcation, the Kineo Indian that evening met some con- 
vivial friends, who imbibed too freely of Canadian Club, 
and, unfortunately for all of us, proceeded to paint the 
little frontier town a beautiful crimson. ]\lost success- 
fully they accom])lished the task, and ere tlu^ dcM-oraling 
process ceased the roosters were informing the subjects of 
King Edward that another day was dawning. To atonc^ 
for this 'Svar dance," we, Indians and all, attended the 
only church in town — a Catholic one. Much of the service 
was in French. That language seemed to predominate on 
both sides of the St. John. 

But Ave were not to get off so easily. While coming out 
of church the Kineo Indian was served with a paper to 
a])pear before "^My Lud'' the following morning. The 
court, being informed of our profession, allowed us to ap- 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



59 



pear for the defense. We put in a plea of justiticatiou. We 
produced a sample of the vile stuff we bought in the 
''States" and compared it with the smooth, oily extract sold 
ov(M' tlie bar of the Hotel New Brunswick, claiming that 
no one was to blame for imbibinii, too freelv of such a de- 




The Valley of the St. John— Fort Kent. 



licious article after such a "torchlight procession'' as Ave 
lu night in Bangor. In fact, we praised everything Cana- 
dian and cond(^mned everything that ever was or ever will 
be across the border. The court generally takes ''the pa- 
pers," but in this case it took a sample of the Bangor brand 
and then that of Canada, sustained our plea of justification 
and discharged the prisonc^r on condition that he leave 
town at once, which we agreed to do and did. 



(;o 



WIlKKi: TIIK SroRTSMAX LOVKS TO fJXdKR. 



In all our loiii; rri]) ovei- tlic wntei-s of .Maiii(\ the four 
lionrs wo jkisscmI that lovely Aiiii,iist afti-niooii uoiiiii- down 
tlie St. John from Connois to T'oi-t Kent was the most on- 
jovabl<s aft(T onr experience on the rnshin^- Allai]:ash, con- 
stantly on the lookont f<»r i-ocks, it ^^'as restful to iilide 
al()ni»- the clear waters of the St. John. The dee]), smooth 
rivei', tluMvide valley, dott(Hl hei-eaiid Ihei-e with little ham- 
lets and productive farms, w ith i-aiiLics of inouiitains in the 
hackiiround, was a siiihl that will linger lonu in onr 
memorv. 



WIIKKE THE SrORTSMAX LOVIOS TO LINGER. 01 



CHAPTEPv V. 

FORT KENT TO WEST RRAXdl, MOT'NT KATAHDIN. 

Fort Kent i-cMallcd tlie exciring political contest "when 
she went for (Governor Kent, Tippecanoe, and Tvler, too.'' 
Among the other attractions of the i)lace, we visited the 
liistoric old blocklionse. At Fort Kent Ave were to take the 
railroad for Norcross, a town one hundred miles south, 
where the West Branch trip usually ends. ^Ve were agree- 
ably surprised to find such good hotel accommodations at 
these little froiitier towns. As we entered the room of the 
hotel we were pleased and astonished to find it crowded 
with a bevy of young, handsome and frolicking girls. In- 
(juiring of tlie waiter who they wercs lu^ informed us they 
were '^the clioi'iis of the show to-nig1it.'' It seems many 
theatrical troupes follow the vacationists to Maine. Sev- 
eral of the young ladies insisted on dining at the same 
table with our guides, and kept u]) (piite a fiirtation with 
the noble red men, greatly to th(^ amusement of the guests, 
])ut to the discomfiture of the Indians. After dinner we 
asked the Kineo guide what he thought of the girls, 'vlleap 
fine squaws." We Avent to the show, of course, and the 
revelry of the night ])rought back to our recollection the 
Kialto in little old New York. 

\\'e dreaded the railroad ride, as we expected in this far- 
otf wilderness to fiml dirty and broken-down rolling stock, 



G:] 



WllEKE THE SrORTS.MAN LOVES TO LINCJEU. 



au uneven roadljed, a r()ii«:^ii lot of passengers, and, as usual 
at terminals on the frontier, tlie depot a box-car, with a 
stovepipe for a cliijiinev. imagine our surprise to find a 
handsome depot, and slanding on the main line beside it 
a railroad train, from tlie cow-catcher to the hind plat- 











Taking-Out Place— Fort Kent. 

form on the last car, in e(]uii)ment e(jual to any running 
out of the Grand Central Depot, and far superior to many 
trains coming into New York carrying the bustling com- 
muter. The trainmen, in their neat uniforms, we found 
gentlemanly, social and accommodating. The roadbed 
showed that the sui)eriutendeut and section men under- 
stood their business. 

He who travels over tlie B. & A. from Fort Kent to Xor- 
cross need not fear he is going to starve because^ there is 



WHERE THE SlH)iri\SMAX LOVES TO LINGEU. 



03 



no dining' car on the train nor eating- stations along the 
line, as about the time for luncheon the conductor passes 
through the train announcing the fact that luncheon will 
be brought aboard the train at the next station for those 




^:a. 







Historic Block House. 



who want it; and a nice one it is, put in a paper box and 
left Avith YOU to eat at your leisure. 

There A^as a count}- fair somewhere down the road, and 
we had an opportunity of seeing the natives. What a con- 
trast between what we call a Xew Yorker and the citizens 
of Ai'oostook County! The former a pale, anxious-looking 
citizen, continually on the verge of a collapse; the latter 
a healthy, rosy-cheeked, contented individual, who looked 



64 ^Y1IEK^: tiik sportsman lovks to linger. 

and acted as if tlie lireed for oold was not tlie aim of life. 
What a contrast between tliose excnrsionists, on pleasure 
bent, and tl)e pale, sickly denizens of the East Side as we 




The Modest Chorus Girl We Admired. 



have seen tliem on some barge on tlieir wav up the Sound 
to some picnic grounds! 

Tlie road led on down through tlie woods alongside of 
tlie lalces. over the streams and around the mountains of 
that liealth-restorin<>- countrv. 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. ()5 

As one passes tliroTii;li tlie fanninj;- districts of Maine, 
if he has ever lived in tlie country, he will appreciate the 
manner of the construction of the farm buildings. On 
account of my health the fifteen years following my gradu- 
ation from Columbia College Law School I spent on a stock 




Bt'tweeu Fort Keut aud Nunross. 



ranch in the Stat(^ of Towa, in a county bordering on the 
]Missouri River, and would have likely remained there if 
the Beef Trust had even left me the first cut back of the 
horns; ])ut it insisted on taking the wliole steer. If before 
I liad erected my Iowa Imildings I liad taken a trip through 
:\Iaine I would have l)unc]ied them instead of isolating 
them. The iMaine farmer joins all his liuildings together. 
First comes the house, tlien the carriage liouse, then the 



(;(; 



wiij.Ki: 'j'Jii; sTinrrsMAX L(>\"i:s to lin(;ku. 



woo.'islicd and \\w animal (jiiartcrs, \\illi otlici' lU'ccssary 
])uildiii,iis joined tlicrcoii, with dooi-s o]H'nin!z from one to 
the otliei', wliei-eas tlie Western man builds liis apart. 

A^'e liave of'lcn heard our New York friends sjteak of tlie 
blizzard of ISSS, but w c tell them lliev do not know what 













7 






'U. 



-"^is^: 






a blizzaiM] is, and we are bold enouuh to say that a Maine 
farmer has somethinii to learn in that lin(\ lie who lives 
in a wooded country knows nothing of the storm-s\\'e])t 
l)rairi(^s. \\'hile the blizzard is on the Maine farmer can 
rise in the mornino- and walk under cover from liis parlor 
to his ])i^-])en, everytlsini;- j'l-otei ted within, while the storm 
howls witli(»ut. Not so with liis Western neighbor, with 
his detached buihiinus, ^\•itll clotheslines as liuide ]'o])es, 



\yiii;re the sp()RTs:\rAx loves to linger. (x 

stninc^ from l)iiil(lin2: to Imildiiiii, so as not to lose tlie trail ; 
tlie liired band, with a scoop-sliovel, tryiiii;' to locate the 
woodpile; the boss of the ranch Avallowino- tliroii<ih snow 
to his arm-pits in a vain endeavor to reach the animal kinc^- 
(hnn; the horses, for want of food, eating' up the stable in 
front and kicking- holes throui^h it in the rear; the cows 
bellowino- to be milked, the hog-pen covered with moun- 
tains of snow, the haystack and corn-cril) out of sight, and 
the usually patient housewife yelling at her lord at the 
top of her voice through a crack in the door, ''Dry wood, 
or no 1 breakfast I" 

Through the courtesy of the superintendent of a pulp 
mill we stopped oyov at IMillinocket and saw the process 
whereby the virgin forest is turned into paper. The logs 
were sawed into blocks, the l)locks ground into pulp and 
the pulp convei't(Ml into paper. The lumlxTing camps of 
]Maine are fast removing the trees from which the State 
got its sobri<juet; nor does the pine tree come again where 
once cut off. Strange as it nmy seem, where years ago the 
great pine forest was, now one has ditticulty in finding a 
pine tree. As a general rule, similar growth springs up 
from the stump of a tree cut down, but not so with the 
''pumpkin" pine. Almost invariably birch comes instead. 
V^Q saw repeatedly white birch growing from the stump, 
we might say, of a pine tree. From the way the pine tree 
is disappearing T^faine will have to change her other name. 
There was a time when pine was the on.ly tree cut in the 
State; now tlie spruce and hemlock are also fast disappear- 
ing. r>ut worse than the woodch()]»per are the pul]^ mills. 
They clean out eveiwthing in sight, large aiul snmll. Laws 
should be enacted protecting the young timber, or ^Nlaine 
will lose its attractiveness for the American sportsman. 
What a magnificent spectacle th(^ woods of Maine must 



bo W lll'AlK THE Sl'()li'IS.\l AN J.()\ i.S lO l.lM.Kli. 

have been when the pine was in its gh)rv and the nnih'i- 
brnsli was an unknown quantity I 

''The sliades of ni<^lit were fallini: fast" as the trainnie:i 
announeed : ^'Norci'oss the nc^xt station/' Wv were souie- 
wliat disa])]K)inte(l with Xoreross; for tlie takinii-out ]>hire 



iP^^*"#^ 






'.»^iA 




Ambajcjus Lake. 

of t]ie most ])(>])uhir eanoe (rip in tlie Stale we exp(M-ted 
to s"e an ni)-to-dat(^ town, hut we found it next (h)oi' to 
notliin^-. I*ut, as we wc^re h)(>kiiiii' f<>>" ozone and not style, 
for the work of nature and not that of ''the man in tlie over- 
alls," we ent(^red the liotel, about tlie only l)uildiii_u- in town, 
Avliere we put up for the ni^ht. Connected with the 
hotel was a su])ply store. The next nioi-nin-i we laid in 
onr supi)lies for tlu^ ^^'est P>i-anch trip. 

\\\' hd't Xoreross on a little steamer which runs thi'oui;h 



\yiIEKE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



GO 



Xortli T^^'in, Peiiiadumcook and Ainbajejus Lakes. As one 
sails up tliose lakes there is constantly in view and nearer 
and nearer he approaches old Katahdin. Tlionsands of loi>s 
Avere floating- on the surface of the lake, as the West Branch 
drive had just gotten through. We had quite an exciting 




Loon, or Great Northern Diver. 



and amusing' experience on the little steamer which plies 
between Norcross and Ambajeius Falls. The deck of the 
boat was loaded with sportsmen, botli men and women, 
canoes and dunnage, and we were all enjoying the delight- 
ful trip, when, with a roar, volumes of steam burst from 
the pilot-house ; and the pilot, who acted as captain, deck- 
hand, assistant engineer and cook, all combined in one. 



70 \\'iii:ke the .spuktsman loves to linger. 

came rusliiiiir out of tli(3 pilot-lioiise, yclliiiii-, '"Over with 
the lifeboats." Everybody thoni;ht the boat was i;oing to 
l)h)w up. Over went tlie eanoes, uvvv went tlie passengers, 
some landing in the eanors, otliers in tlu^ water. It seems 
a stop-coek on a steampipe in the ])i lot house had burst. 
The combination pib)t, cai)tain, deckhand, assistant engi- 
neer and cook rushed back into the ])ihjtdiouse and. in an 
attempt to slnit off tl\e steam, choked, fainted and got 
scalded. A>'e miuht as well liave stayed where we were, as 
tlie steam soon exliauste<l itself. It was one of those cases 
when the crew lost its head. The passengers i-eturned to 
the l)oat and att(Mii])ted to revive the "(MMiibination." In- 
stead of attending to the jtoci' fellow's woniids, everybody 
sugg(»st(Ml giving him whiskex, which resulted in completely 
stupefying him. 

As our l)oat was l)eing towed back to Xoi'cross abiriinng 
reports pr(H-e'led us. 'Hie family of the "combination," 
physicians who had l)een telegiai'hed foi- along the line and 
the few iidiabitants of the town wei'e there to meet us. 
Everybody was syiii])ath<'t ic as they began to carry out the 
''dead," and wei-e surja-ised and i-elicNcd to find that the 
only "dead oiu^" Avas the ''combination.'' After a liasty 
examination bv th.e physicians aiid explanations by tlie 
passengers "a walk around tlie block" brought th(^ ''com- 
bination" back to life, little th(^ worse for his experience 
as a navigator over the Avaters of Maim^ And the last we 
lieard of him he was singing "The Yarn of the 'Xancy 
Beir " : 

"O, I am a cook and a captain bold, 
And the mate of the 'Xancy' brig, 
And a l)0-sun tight, and a nndshi]) mite, 
And the crew of the cai)tain*s gig." 



WHERE THE SrOK'J'SMAX LOVES TO LIXGEK. 71 

We were trajisferred to iui<>tlier steainer, and at the head 
of Ambajejus all our b(doiigin<»s Avere tmloaded and 
again the wUd life of tlie canoeist Avas before ns. The 
guides Avere again our guardians. All A\ill admit there 
is a difference AAh<4her you are going uj) hill or down. 





Debconeag Falls. 



Eveiything so far Avas doAvn stream, but uoav Ave were ''up 
against it.'' Where one canoeist goes up the West Branch 
hundreds go doAAu. As the daA^ AA'as Avell gone, AA'e camped 
on the shore of Ambajejus Lake, and Avhile lying on our 
bough bed, list(-nino- to the continuous Avail of the great 
Northern diver, Mor])heus claimcMl us as his oavu. 

Before us for the next day A\'as the hardest day's Avork 
for the guides of the entire trio. There Avere five carrA^s 



72 wiiKRi: THE sportsman lovks to li.\(;i:r. 

on tlic next ten iinlcs. l)iit it was suri>risiiiu- to soo how 
easily and (inickly tho Indians made tlieni. Tliat niulit 
wo camixMl wlioro Abol stream enters the West Braneh, at 
tlie foot of wliat Pilve's Peak is to tlie Kockies, the ''tie to'' 
of Northern .Maine, Katahdiu ^Mountain. 

"Katahdin is the monareh of mountains; 
Tliev crowned liini lonii' Ji.U<> 
On a llii-oiic of rocks, in a robe of (douds, 
With a diaih'in of snow." 



WHKUK THE .SPORTSMAN LOVES ^'O LIXCEll. 73 



CIIAPTEIJ VI. 

WEST P.RANCII — MOrXT KATAHDIX TO SOT'RDXAHUXK DEAD 

WATER. 

FORTUXATE it was for a poor guide on Pockwockamus 
Carry that the dental colleges of to-day require students 
who graduate tl:erefrom to l)e thoroughly proficient in an- 
atomy. While the guides were making the carry we strolled 
along the river bank, casting our lines for an occasional 
speckled Ix^auty. The Bangor Indian came rushing to us, 
saying there was a man hurt, ^^i' found a guide lying on 
the ground, suft'ei-ing excruciating pain. It seems he had 
stum])led while carrying a canoe and had dislocated his 
knee-joint. They were about to take him to Norcross, when 
the Bangor Indian informed the i)arty that a doctor was 
one of his party. All hands niad(^ Avay for the doctor. The 
operating table was the ground and sympathy the anaes- 
thetic. The doctor stripped the clothing from the guide's 
leg, placed him in a pro])er position, put his knee on the 
dislocated bone, and ordered lis to catch hold of the fel- 
low's leg and pull. With a groan from the guide and a 
snap of the bone the knee went back into place. The Doc- 
tor informed tli(^ party that they had b(^tt(U' set up a tent 
then and ther(% as the patient would not be able to move for 
a fortnight. 

It g<Micrally takes about four round-trips to make a 



<4 ^\I1I:KE Tin: sportsman loves to lixcku. 

carry. 'J'lic canoe is usually llic lirsl 1<ki(1, and is carried 
])()tt()iu side up on the shoulders of the ;L;uide. Then fol- 
lows tiie icst of the oulfil, the <:uide takin<;' on each trip 
about Avliat he thinks he can conveniently lug. 8tra})s 
such as sohliei'S use in carrying their knapsacks are used 




Pockwockainus Dead Water. 

in carrying tlie t(Mits and iKMlding, which are coNcred willi 
water] jroof blankets. The longest carry for the guides on 
the AVest Branch is Pockwockanius; ami on the East 
r.ranch, Ilaskcdl liock, botli about thi'ee-(juart(M-s of a mile. 
On the AHagash tliere is only om' carry, we might say, and 
that a short one, at Allagasli I'alls, in cojjsciiuence of wliicli 
the AHagash tri]) was becoming A'ery ])opuIar. A guide al- 
ways l)reatl!es easier when tlie •'s])oi-ts" infoi'm Inm that 
they are goi?ig to take tiie AHagash tia*]). 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINCJER. 75 

From our iiifaiu-y we liave heard of IMyiuouth Kock and 
the rockbouiid New En<;hiiid Coast, but tlie rocks of the 
State of Elaine are not all along the coast line. Canoes 
can testify that there are a few along the rivers. The rocks 
along the Allagash East and West Branch show evidence 




Pockwockanuis Carry. 

of contact with canoes by the paint left thereon. If it 
were not that tlie constant flow of water for ages has 
worn the rocks sniootli, the canoe tri])s that afford so much 
pleasuT'e to tlie sportsman couhl not l)e accomplished. We 
dou])t if there are any more rocks in a given space in the 
State of Maine, or in any other State, for that matter, 
than there is at Pockwockanuis Falls, on the AA'est P>i-anch 
of th(^ Penoljscot Piver. There are enough rocks there to 
build tlu^ foundations for all the skyscrapers that will be 



i(\ ^^•III•:R!: the sroirrsMAx lovks to lixckr. 

ei'cclcd oil .Mmilirjttaii Island dui-iiiii" tliis uoiicration. It 
looks a.s if rlie Siijii-cme noinu', wIkmi TTo connnoiicod dis- 
trilmtinii' stoiK^s aloii,^" l!io \\'ost r>raiicli, nnist liavc IxM-ome 
loii-vrcary or wont on striko wIkmi He reaclnMl INx-kwocka- 
nins Fa.lls and tliorc dnnij^cd tlic balance^ of TTis load. 




A Carry. 



One nets lols of ont<loor oxercise botwoon And)ajojns 
L; k<Mnid Alxd stvcani ; in fact, we li'ot so niucli of it that we 
were rcniindcd (if tlie story of tlie Kniilisli ](4t(M'-carrier. 
His ronte was (^n the ontskii-ts of London, and in ordcM- to 
make his ronnds he \\as coinixdled to walk seventeen miles 
a day. The ])oor fellow broke down nnder the sti'ain, was 
taken ill an<l sent for a doctor. Th(^ doctoi- exaniine(l his 
])nlse, looked at his tiniiiiie and asked the let tei'-carrier his 



WIIEKl] THE eroRTSMAX LOVES 'lO LIXCiER. i < 

occupation. ^J1ie letter-carrier told him lie was in the Post- 
office Department. The Avise diagnostician, inferring that 
his patient Avas confined in some din«^y postal office, 
thouii'ht he was safe in saying-, ^^Wliat you want is outdoor 
exercise.'' 

While in camp at the foot of Mount Katahdin we were 




Abol Falls. 



to start another meat market, Avith the same brand of goo<ls 
Ave had in stock at Churchill Lake, and Ave Avere also to 
ascend the mountain; so Ave had the Indians lay out the 
camp in due and ancient form. Obtaining A^enison along 
the West Branch is a much more risky business than along 
the Allagash, as Avhere you Avill meet one canoeman on the 
Allagash vou Avill meet hundreds on the A Vest Branch. 



78 wiiKia: the sportsman loves to linger. 

Tliore was iLiaiiic in i)l('iily, and all ni^lit louii vou could 
li'.^ar the "IjIow" of the deer and the heavv ti-anip of the 
moose. One of the few noises <len(>linu the [)reseuee of 
game is the snort of the (h'er throui;li curiosity. This same 
curiosity lias cost many of them tleii* lives. They are like 
the horse in the ])asture \\ ho sees some strange object and 
cannot rest until he finds out v.lial it is. The silent aj)- 
proachini;- canoe has held oame as if riveted to the ground, 
they thinkinii' there is no dan.L!:er until the tloatinii object 
coiiKs nearer, litth' knowini;' that the deadly rilie has them 
already in ran^e. 

The hunter who has never visited Maine duriiiu the 
clos<'d season has no i(l( a how tame the uame is. One has 
no dilhcnlty ucttini;- within a «-on]>l(' of canoe-lengths of 
deer and moose. They are constantly around the camp, 
day and nii^ht. It is an awful tem])tation to the avera^i^e 
s]M)rtsman. One (►f the guides i-emai'ked, ''They seem to 
know when it is closed season." When ()ctol»ei' comes and 
the tirin^i*- beuins th(\v awake to [i sad realizalion that it is 
no lon^i»'er "closed season." 

After breakfast, lea\ ini:- the Indians at home, we took a 
stroll alonii' the rivei' baid<. The oidy uame we saw that 
afforded us any kind of a shot was a deer across the riv(T. 
It was a lonj>- shot, but we scored a hit. KiMurninii- to the 
cam]), we were soon pachllin^u' to wher(^ Ave thouiiiit we had 
shot the deer. After a loni>' hunt we were startled in seeiufi^ 
the deer a hundred yards from where we shot it, dra<i'iiiniLi- 
its hind parts. It had be(Mi shot in the back, paralyzini; 
its hind lecjs. We soon put it out of its misery. It is sur- 
prising that, no matter what the conditions, seldom do 
game make any noise; there was that animal in awful 
agony, yet not a sound did it give forth. 

If any reader of this narrative ever takes the West 



WHERE THE SroUTSMAX LOVES TO LlXCJElt. 



1) 



Branch trip, he should not nc'i^h-ct asceiKliiig Mount Katah- 
diu. The view from its suiiiinit is no doubt one of the most 
inspiring- in all this land. Tlie <]av we uiade th(^ asrrnt 





From Mount Katahdiu's Summit. 



the camp was early astir, as it is a hard and long day's 
tramp to the summit and return. At sunrise, with the two 
Indians, Ave started on the spotted trail that leads along 
8andy stream and through the dense forest to what is 
called the -'slide/' In the eai-lv forties a landslide oc- 



so wiiKKK Tin: siM)in\s:\iAX lovks to lixcku. 

currod on tlic sontlicni slope of the mountain. Up and 
up tliat uravelly. rocky ])atliway we and the two Indians 
diiii' al()ii<i'. Six liours after w(^ h^ft eani]) v/e were on tlie 
snniniit. Monnt Katalidin reminded us of the Koekies, on 
aecount of its tindter line. One could easily imagine that 
theheautiful lakes, mountains and streams, spi-ead out he- 
fore us as far as the ulass could reach, would some day he 
the sunuucM* homes of America's mult i-milli(Uiaires. I'oi' 
a time a ])assinii' tliunder stoi-m, lialt'way <lowu ihc nioun- 
tainsi<le, ohstrncted our view. The sun was hut a few hours 
hiiih when we hei^an the ascent; notwitlistandin^' it <irew 
dark, the Indians followed the s])otte<l trail to the camp, 
and tliat ended tl'e hardest day's work on the enl ire trij). 

>Mnh' we NNcre in cam]) at the foot •;)f .Mount Katahdin 
we met some friends from (1ii«ai!,(), who invited us to s])end 
a day or two at thcMr cam]) on Sourdnahuidv Lake to enjoy 
the fishinu'. If the anuler \\ants to satisfy his heart's de- 
sire, he can tind no hclter ]tlace in all .Maine tlian in the 
Sourdnalinnk remiini. The lit tie ])onds aloui: Sourdnahunk 
strc^am ahound with speckled heauties, and they rise to 
any kind of tly. 

"A-sudden. the s])eckled hav\'k of the hrook 
Darts from his covert and seizes the hook. 
Swift spins the rind; with easy slip 
The line plays out, and the rod, like a whip, 
Lithe and arrowy, ta]x^rinii\ slim. 
Is hent to a how o'ei' the hrooklct's hrim, 
Till the trout leaps np in the sun and tiinos 
The spray from the flash of his tinny winii's." 

We had often adinired the head and horns of an immense 
moose in our friend's Chicago hankinu' house, and, now that 



\yiIERE THE SrOllTSMAX LOVES TO LINGER. 



81 



^\Q wore on the lake avIktc lie secured i(, we heard tli(^ story 
of the trick, often tried, but seldom accomplished, of simu- 
lating the call of the cow moose and l)rini!,ing the bull. 

^'One clear, crisp afternoon one of the guides informed 
the camp of his intentions. Fashioning a megaphonic horn 




"Good Morning, Mr. Trout! How Are All the Family?" 

of birch l)ark, li(^ went about a quarter of a nule from the 
camp, wIh^i'c a toting road ended at the lake. We soon heard 
echoing through the tind)er and over the hike an exact imi- 
tation of the long drawn-out, weird, nerve-racking plaint of 
the cow moose. At intervals the guide continued the call. 
You could hear a pin drop in the camp. Between times one 
could !iear the busy ^stake-driver,' the report of the gun 
of some distant hunter and the wail of the loon. While 
we were intently listening one of tlu^ guides jumped to his 



81' 



WllEKIO THE h;P()KTS.MAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



foet, ri'iiiarkiiio-, 'J)i(l yon licar that?' Like the animals 
that roam tliose forests, the guides acquire a keen sense of 
siglit aiul iu'ariiig. 'JMie guide continued calling willi re- 
newed vigor. Soon tlie Avhole camj) heard, far away to- 
Avard Blount Katahdin, the faint ans\Ner of the monarch 



9k 


■^^^^ni 




iT 




Isr 


^^^^^i^flHHI 


:'■ . 1 



Our Chicago Friend's Camp, Sourdnahunk Lake. 

of the forest, ihw of tlu^ gui(l(^s estimatcHl tlie distance as 
at least seven miles. One could lieai- tlie answering call 
plainly, and then hardly ])erce|)l ihle ; yet we could tell that 
the animal was gradn^illy npiM-oaching. Thi-ee of us hid 
behind trees a shoi't distance luu-k from the tot(^ road. 

'*Aft(U* two hours of patient waiting, and just as th(^ sun 
was sinking, Avitli tlu^ cracking of dry-ki and smashing of 
limhs, the Imge, jiaiitiug beast came in siglit on a ledge 
some distance up the vo-id. lie was mud to his belly, 



WHERE THE rfl'OliTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 83 

caused by walloAving tliroiigli bogs on liis hasty trip. He 
stood for a moment, grunting and scenting the air. The 
guide, who had in the meantime climbed a tree, continued 




Find the Fish. 



to call. The moose, being on high ground, and in the twi- 
light, looked as big as an elephant. The Avind was blowing 
toward him, and lie no doubt scented us; yet doAvn the 
tote road, with that awlavard though rapid gait, he came, 
head erect and his great antlers brusliino- tlie l)OU2fhs. Woe 



84 



V.'IIT'UK Till-: SPORTSMAN LoVKS TO IJXCJER. 



1)0 to the poor marksman wlio undertakes to stop a moose 
under such conditions. Just as lie .^ot opposite us we 
opened fire, and down w(^nt eh^ven liundred pounds of 
moose meat. Xo finer liead of liorns ever left the Tine Tree 
State.'' 




Wi-Lik.d oil lliL \V 



Uraiu-h. 



There w(Te sevei-al ]>ar1ies cami^iii^- near us at Abol 
stream, among them a lawyer, with his family, from Bos- 
ton. The (juestion arose reuardiiiii- shootinu' deer out of 
season. It seemed to be the univei-sal o]>iiiion that ihc in- 
tent of the law was solely to prevent the wanton destnn-- 
tion of p,ame, not that one should depriA'e himscdf of fresh 
meat, killed for his own imnuMliatc use. It is Ihc general 
o])inion amonu' lawv<'rs that if a case was carried to the 



WHERE THE SPORTS:\rAN LOVES TO LINGER. 85 

lii^lier court that court AvoukI liold that a sportsman avIio 
killed ^ainc out of season for his own nse while in camp 
was not violatini;' the intent of the law. 

In TOur stock of provisions it is well to take some ping 
tobacco, even if you do not chew it. AVe placed a certain 
plug where it did us a whole lot of good. While Ave Avere 
in camp at the f(^ot of IMount Katahdin, on the West 
Branch, a l)at(^au A\'as scnm coming up stream loaded Avith 
barrels and boxes of provisions. They stopped opposite 
our camp, and a A^ery gooddooking fellow came ashore and 
asked if Ave had any plug tobacco. We made him a present 
of a plug. He Avas transporting suppli(^s for some civil 
engineers Avho Avere building a dam at Sourdnahunk Falls 
for a corporation known as the Great Northern Company. 

Horses and a sleigh called a '^jumper'' were used by the 
company transporting the supplies over the carrys. Some- 
times the carry Avould be on one side of th(^ river and then 
on the other, necessitating the horses swimming the river. 
They seemed to sense the situation and took to the Avatej* 
as if they had some duck blood in their veins. 

The great question in the lumbering business in the State 
of Maine is to get sufficient Avater to float a log to the mill. 
The (Ireat Northern must have a pull Avitli the powers 
that be, as they dam up the riATrs, OATrfloAv the lakes and 
change the Avater courses of the State Avitli impunity. But 
a man living Avhere Tammany Hall rules supreme does 
not throw up the sponge if he happens to run up against 
a pull; if he did the sponge Avould be in the air all the 
time. The incident of the plug of tobacco had passed out 
of mind as we broke cainp and started on our trip up the 
riA^er. T\'hen aa^c reached the foot of Sourdnahunk Falls 
Ave were surprised to again see the young man to Avhom we 
had oiven the tobacco. Tt seems he was the boss of the 



86 



WHERE THE SPOUTSMAX LOVERS TO LINGER. 



transportation lines along the AVest Branch of the Great 
Xorthei-n Company, lie invited ns to the snpply eanip, 
insisted on our taking dinner, and made us a present of 








^^^ f 



Grub for Knights of the Tripod. 



some delicious fruit, had his men help us over the cari-y, 
and teleidioned to (lie man who totes ])ar(ies over Kipo- 
genus Carry to he on the lookout foi- tlie "most accommo- 
dating sportsmen that ever went up the West IJranch.'' 



WHERE THE SrORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 87 



CHAPTER VII. 

SOURDNAHUNK DEAD WATER TO CIIESUNCOOK. 

Our next camping place was on Sourdnaliunk dead 
water, at the foot of the Horserace, and was the ideal 
camping" ground of the entire trip. Here the river broad- 
ens into a miniature hike, calm and placid, the banks easy 
of access and timbered, not with the Maine jungle, but 
siinilar to tlie woods of the Central States, into which one 
can see long distanc(^s. Spring water and birch abound, 
the scenery is j)ici:uresque be^'ond descri])tion, deer and 
moose are plentiful, and the watei's of the nearln^ brooks 
are alive with delicious trout. There the weary toiler 
from the hot city will find his haven of rest. He will 
indeed believe that ''(Jod made tlie country and man made 
the town." 

The next two miles before us was the dreaded Horse- 
race, a second Chase's Carry, and tlie toughest proposition 
for the canoeist along the whole West Branch trip. It is 
difficult and dangerous to go down, but going down is not 
a bagatelle to going u]). The way the waters run no doubt 
gave it its naiiu\ Along the river banks of [Maine there are 
paths nmde by lund)ermen and game on which one can 
easily walk. The day we went up the Horserace we 
wei'c to meet our lirst misfortune of any consequence, los- 
ing practically all our provisions. The Hoi'serace going 



88 



WIIKKi: TIIK SPORTSMAN LOVKS TO LIXdKR. 



do\yii can be rim on tlie paddle, but iioin,2: up canoes have 
to be led all the way. From the ln\ii'h cliffs alono- the river 
bank we could see the Indians in I lie valley Indow l)aUlinii' 
with tlie I'usliinii waters anionic' the rocks. 

The Kineo Indian i>-ot reckless, and in endeavorini:; to 





gH. 


^'"4njgpl'/'i;--- 


^VuB^MkJC : 


iH^K' '^1^ 


^Hjl 


^^^HJ^^Ij^^^B - ^^^L 


M 


^^^^^^H^^ ^^^^^^^Bi^^Hli^^^^^^^^^BHk 


yHHHl 


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^K[^ ^ -^ 


K ^ -i^^^^^^^^^^^^^M 



Author's Tent, Where the Narrative Was Drafted. 

pole his canoe u])set it, and, ^^'ith the e.\cei)tion of some 
salt p(U'k and ijrunes that were in the othcM- canoe, our 
stock of ])rovisions mingled with the waters of the Horse- 
race, to be seen no more. Yet with all his faults we loved 
him still. He was the cook, and a good on(\ We have 
eaten many a meal at swell restaurants alonji" upper Broad- 
way that could not compare in the art of cooking with that 
of the head of our culinary department — the gentleman 
from Kineo. 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



89 



While we were in camp on Sonrdnalumk dead water we 
came near witnessing a terrible traiiedy tlirongli the crimi- 
nal oversight of a careless hunter and the lack of knowl- 
edge on the part of a parent. A gentleman from St. Louis, 
with his family, was camping a short distance from us. 




Sourdnahunk Stream. 

His family consisted of his wife and two children — a son 
about twelve years old and a daughter al)out six. A little 
b(4ow where the St. Louis nmn camped Avas a sandy beach, 
whei'e the children played much of their time. During the 
summer the coat of the deer is red, whereas later in the 
fall it sheds its coat of red and brown hair comes in its 
place. The night l)efore the incident occurred a party 
came down the river and pitched their tent on the opposite 
shore from the sandy beach, distant about half a mile. 



90 wiii:ke the sportsman loves to linger. 

The (lay of the iiiciik^nt tlie mother uiifortuuatel}^ 
dressed the litth- oiri in v^d. The bi-otlier liad taken his 
sister to their favorite ])hiyinii; jiroiiiids, and, nnbeknown 
to Lhe i)arents, liad ^oiic tishin^' in a nearby brook. 
AVe heard a shot, and almost at the same time a eanoe 
puslied ont from the o]»]>osii(' shore, hcach'd toward the 
sandy beach, 'i'he canoe had uone only a few hMi^ths when 
it tni-ned, and the occnpants ]>addled rajndly back from 
wJiere it started. In the meanwhile we saw the little ^liirl 
rnnninu' toward ns, ciyini;' as if her heart would break. 
A\'e all rushed dow n to meet her. She was holdini; a little, 
lu^adless doll in her hands. I'rom all a])i)earances the head 
had been shot oil". Tiie Indian ^unides, who had heard the 
shot and seen I he action of the canoe, infornuMl ns that the 
little uiid had no (loni>t been taken for a deei*. In com- 
pany with the I)(M-tor and the St. i.onis man we crossed 
the river to the canijt, and it was with difticnlty we re- 
strainecl the falhei- fi-oin uivini: the im jH>i-t ineiit fellow we 
fonnd there the whi|»iiinL: he deser\(Ml. If there was an 
examjde made of some of those careless hnnters, who shoot 
withont knowing wlmt lluy are shootini:' at, there wonbl 
be a few less dead men cai-ried ont of the Maine woods. 

Riii' Eddy was onr next cami)in:Li, place, and therc^ Ave 
spt^Mit the most misei-able time (d all oiii* trip. Finhtimi: 
black dies and "no se(^ em's" on a diet of salt pork and 
prunes is not a very enjoyabb^ occupation. If it were in)t 
for a smndu(^ eampers-ont Avonbl ]>ass many shH'pless 
nights. 

The next three miles was over the roni^hest carry and 
alon.iiside of the grandest <iorge in the State. Bi<>' Eddy 
is at the foot of I\ip(\iienns (Tortie, the dr(^ad of the Inndter- 
nien of the AN'est Branch. The water rolls ami tumbles 
over and anions ^re;it ]n-ecipices, and when the drive is 



^YHKRE THE Sl'ORTSMAX LOVES TO LINGER. 



91 



on log- jams are of frcMiuent occurrence. In the settlement 
of tlie early West there Avas a common expression that 
^'life there was death to Avomen and oxen." The IJipogenus 
Carry and gorge is death to horses and logs. 

On all the other carries the o-uides either did the carrv- 




Sourdnahunk Falls. 

ing or our outfit was transported by wagon; but a two- 
horse sleigh, or, in other words, a '^jumper,'' was the means 
of con\t\yance over that carry. With the canoes and dun- 
nage securely tied on the jumper, we started on foot over 
the three miles that ended at Ilipogenus Lake. It was 
Chase's Carry on shore. Over stumps, logs and boulders 
the horses picked their way and the ''jumper'' jumped. 
We expected any moment the jumper to upset or climb 
a tree. Some of the gulleys Avere so steep they had to snub 



92 



W II EKE THE SroUTSMAX LOVES TO LINGER. 



the jumper with a rope to keep it from jumping clear 
over the horses. If ever a person earncMl six doHars, the 
old man who jumped us across that carry was the 

individual. 













i=/v 




Ripogenus Gorge. 



We paddled across Tiipogenns Lake, another short carry, 
and were aiiain on tlie waters of diesuncook. AVe took 
luncli witli tlie ov.ner of tlie jumper at his log hut at 
tlie foot of tlic hdv-c. 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



93 



Skins of bears and foxes linnii: on ihv walls of the old 
man's raucli. The old fellow lives there a'one all winter 
and snninier. In the '\^()od old snniiner time'' he totes 
'^sports'' over the carry and in \\inter he trai)S. He sells 
the skins and also ^(4s a bounty from the eonnt}^ for scalps. 







■^S- 




Kipogenus Carry. 



By eueroetic paddling-, in which we all took a hand, the 
seventeen miles to the little town of Chesuncook, at the 
head of the lake, Avas covered as dusky twilii^ht stole upon 
us. AVith our arrival at the head of Ciiesuncook Lake we 
had looped the loop, so to speak. We had surrounded all 
the country lying between what is known as the Allapish 
trip, on the north; the Bangor and Aroostook Bailroad 
from Fort Kent to Norcross, on the east; the West Branch, 



94 WHERE THE .Sl>UK'i\SMAN LOVES TO Ll.NGEli. 

on the south, aud Chcsuucook, on t\w west, (Mnbracini;' one- 
thiicl of the State, and we were now to go througii the 
center by way of the East Branch. 

What a game preserve that wouhl make I One hundred 
and seventy-tive miles in length l)y seventy-live miles in 
Avidth, inliabited by thousands of wihl animals, lish and 
featlKM-ed fowl. On tlie borders of the preserve are tlie 
postotitic(%s from whicli the dwellers of that vast wilderness 
obtain their mail. Vou who find fault witli only one mail 
a day, and kick if your morning ne\\'si)H]icr is not in the 
vestibule before daylight, should have a dose the inliabitant 
of that portion of the Tnioii gets. 

Chesuncook, or, as it is jM-onoiinced by the natives, "Sun- 
cook,'' is the ideal frontier to\\n. As a general rule the 
names of the lakes and streams of .Maine can stand crop- 
ping off a syllable or two with a certainty that there will 
be i>]enty left. As we try to find time to j^ronounce some 
of the names, we do not blame the natives for dro]>i)ing 
a syllable now and then. Their action reminds us of the 
experience of a would-be dramatic writer who calbMl on a 
manager with his newly written ])lay for the manager's 
acceptance or rejection. The manager cut out portions of 
it and finally rejected it. The author took it to another 
manager, who cut out more of it and also rejected it. The 
third manager cut out more of it, and, in returning it, 
cruelly wrote the poor author that if he could tind another 
manager who would cut out the rest it would be one of 
the best plays ever written. 

Chesuncook is over sixty miles from the nearest rail- 
road station — Greenville, at the foot of ]Moosehead Lake. 
From Greenville the mail is carried forty miles by stc^amer 
U]) the lake, two mih^s by wagon over Northeast Carry, and 
then by canoe twenty miles to Chesuncook. As we passed 



^^'HEKE THE SPOUTSAJAN loves 1^0 LINGER. 



1)5 



up the lake the following day we met the mail-carrier com- 
ing down, with ''rnele Sam'' in the bottom of the eanoe. 
The arrival of tlie canoe at Chesuncook is looked forward 
' to with as much anxiety and pleasure as the railroad train 
and stage coach in other parts of the country. Half of the 




Between Ripogenus and Chesuncook. 



eastern portion of that great preserve go to Chesuncook for 
their mail. There is one satisfaction — it takes a long time 
to get the customary recpiest to ''please remit.'' 

The hotel at Chesuncook was the typical wo(^dsnuin's 
hostelry. Its presentation w^as anything l)ut inviting, yet 
everything was satisfactory within. The wooden floors 
showed the imprint of the spiked shoes of the hnnbermen. 
As we entered, a large open fireplace with logs afire greeted 



96 



wiiKKi: Tin-: stoktsmax lovk.s to linger. 



us. The hotel was full of sportsmen and liuides. Vale 
Colleiio students were s\vap])ini4' yai-ns witli the sous of tlie 
forest. AVe listeiieil xncII on to iiiidnl^lit to tlie inti^restini*' 
experieuees of tlie .guides of Xortlieru ^I.-iine. It was witli 
interest Ave heai-d the story of one of the i;uides showing 




Cliesuncook Dam. 

the instinet of the monarch of tlie uamc^ of Maine — the 
moose. It was during the early hunting season. Tlie guide 
was one of two in. charge of a Philadelphia partj^ 
who Avere cam])ing on Eagle Lake. As near as we can recol- 
lect, the story ran as follows: 

''We got our drinking AA'ater at a spring near the lake. 
The night before^ we Avere to break camp tliei-e Avas a fall 
of aboul t\\() im Ik^s of snow. As T went to the spring the 
next morninii' T noticed the largest moose ti'acks I e\'er 



WHERE THE SrORTS:\IAX LOVES TO LINGER. 97 

saw. On lUY return to the camp I reported wliat I had seen. 
At breakfast two of tlie 'sports' decided to track the ani- 
mal, and chose me to gnide them, the rest of the party re- 
turnin.ii' to TMiesnncook and home. It proved to be the 
longest and toughest hunt for game I ever made, but the 
two 'sports' Avere young and full of ginger and stood the 
tramp without a murmur. Taking three sleeping bags and 
grub enougli to last for a week, we started on a trail tliat 
ended on ]\lunsungan stream, al)Out thirty miles from the 
start. 

''That moose was a past-master in trickery. The first 
day he took a bee-line through the woods for ten miles, and 
just al)out time for us to camp for the night he commenced 
to circle. A moose knows when any])ody is on his trail, 
and, to convince himself of it, he will travel in a circle, and 
then a circle within a circle, and then stand for hours to 
see if his pursuers are still after liim. Another peculiarity : 
a moose will seldom lie down if he thinks he is being fol- 
low'^l, and thus a hunter Avill tire him out. You can camp 
and go to sleep, but no sleep for him until he is sure the 
hunt is off. 

"Most of the day we followed the tracks, circling for 
nules among the woods, the moose no doubt seeing us, but 
we getting no sight of him. Late in the afternoon we 
struck the cross-trail, and then for another straight run 
for ten miles to Munsungan stream, Aviiere we camped for 
the night. The trail led down the stream. During the 
night the moose track and everything else was buried under 
a foot of snow, and the next morning, instead of hunting 
moose, we were hunting a camp. We started down the 
stream for a camp I knew, and had not gone over two miles 
when there, mired in a bog, was our friend, too exhausted 
to extricate himself. AVe severed the head, with as fine a 



98 



WIIKRK Tin: SPORTSMAN LOVKS TO LIX(;Kll. 



set of horns as I ever saw, and tlicy to-day ornaiiR'nt the 
\\(in of one of Phihtdeljjhia's millionaires." 

There is a little steain(M' at du^snncook that carries stip- 
l)lies u}) and down the hdve, and is also hired hy ^'sj)orts" 
for excursion Durnoses. The name of the boat is the ''('ari- 




Tlu' ••Caribou." 

hou." Two days before our arrival some ^'sports" had en- 
i>ai»ed the Ixtat for a tishin^ trip down the h\kr. A drunken 
fellow got aboard tln^ boat, and the boys with much difti- 
cuUy threw him off. As the boat started away the fellow 
]>ulled out his uun and made a target of the stern of the 
boat, lie was arrested, and in telephoning to Kiueo for a 
consta])le the wag who did the tidephoning, unknown to 
anybody, said a man had shot a caribou and they were 
ludding the cul])rit. There are always game wardens at 



WHERE THE SPOKTSMAX LOVES TO LINGER. 99 

Kiueo, and two imiuediately started down the West 
Braneli. On their arrival at Chesuneook they found the 
prisoner in a barn, with two or three fellows sittin*; on 
him, and they >\'anted to know the wliereal)outs of the eari- 
bou. They were informed that the '^Caribou'' had j^one 
down the lake, but would be baek shortly. TIk^ wardens 
finally ascertained what kind of a caribou had been shot, 
and nmde an unsuccessful hunt for the fellow who 
did the telephonino-. The boys, octtiug tired of sitting on 
the prisoner, telephoned to the sheriff, and the day after 
our arrival the sheriff' and his prisoner started in a canoe 
for the shire- town. 



100 



WHERE THE ►SPOiiTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



CIIAPTJ]R VITT. 



ST'XCOOK TO (;UA.\I) LAKE. 



Wk laid ill snniciciit ])1M)V('1i(1(m- at ('iK'suiicook foi* tlie 
tri]) to ( J{*ir.<lst(ni(', nnd llic iiioniiiiu aftci- our an-ival at 
tlie liotel siiw oiu- caiKH's aizaiii ci-ossiiiii tlic liead of tlie 
lake for T'mbazoolvus slF-caiii. Atiain we wci-c (olcd aci'oss 
^Iiid V()U(] Cai-ry; aiiaiu ciil llic wafci-s of Mud IN)iid, witli 
ils lily ]>ads and moose, and down llio oiilh't a^ain to 
diainhci'lain Lake. Our coiii-sc lay down llio lake instead 
of n]) it. As we i-eacjicd T(dos Lake <lie afternoon was fast 
])assinii- away, and on its sIkh-c we ])it( lied oni- tents for 
tlie tirst niiilit by the waters that tlow to the I^^ast IJranch. 
The devout angler (•ain])in_u at Telos Lake should take the 
niik^ tramp <>ver to ColTfH.dos; there h(» will tiiid as i^ood tish- 
in.U' as in the ]>onds of the Sonrdiialmnk region. 

While ])assin^ down the outlet from Mud Pond we met 
eoininii n]) the narrow, rocky channel a canoe, or, more 
properly s])eakinii,, an iini)rovised ambnlance. A poor fel- 
low b.ad had his lea- crushed at the tramway between Ea.ule 
and diamberlain Lakes, and his com])anions were liurryiii_i>- 
liim to KiiKM), sixty miles distant, it beinu tln^ nearest 
]dac(^ wiier(^ he c(^uld receive medical treatment. You who 
live in the city, with a doctor on every block, think of what 
this man had to endure. 



^^'HI:I{I•: the sroirrsMAx loves to linger. 



101 



When the accident happened h(^ was seventy miles from 
a p'lysician and nearly a hundred miles from a railroad. 
He Avas placed in a bateau, rowed ten miles down Cham- 
berlain, transferred into a canoe, taken up Mud Pond out- 
let and across Mud Pond, transferred to a Ava2:on and 




"Suucook'"— storm Coming. 

transported over tlie rou«;]i and rocky ]Mud Pond Carry, 
placed in a canoe, passed over Und)azookus Lake down the 
nine miles of Umbazookns stream, across Chesuncook Lake, 
and then poled and paddled twenty miles up the West 
Branch to Northeast Carry, placed ajiain on a wagon, trans- 
ported over the carry to Moosehead Lake and then twenty 
miles by steamer doAvn the lake to Kineo, reaching a ])hysi- 
cian thirty-six hours after the accident. How would that 
strike the impatient invalid who growls at the nurse if his 



102 wiii:ke the sruuT.sMAX lovers '.'o lincjek. 

wants are uot satisiied as soon as the button is pressed? 
The ladies seem inclined to follow the men to the woods, 
as tliey ha^(' on tlie l>icycl-:' and iLioIf <ii-oiinds. Tliey need 
not fear the fatii;ne of a canoe trip over the waters of 
Maine, as they wili find it far less fatiiinini»" tlian a season 
s])ent at one of onr summer hotels; nor need they wait for 
an escort, as in !he hands of the rei»ister(Ml i^uides of Maine 
they ar(^ as safe as if ihey wen^ wilh a brother, and 
much more so than in the com]>a;iy of the averaiire youn<]^ 
man of to-day. They can rest assured tiicy \\ill lie welcoim^, 
as we had evidence of that while we were on Telos Lake. 
A lariic ]»arty fr(nn l.ouisxilhs Ky., anions whom were sev- 
ei-al y(>iniu- ladies, \\-ei-e in c;nn]> not f;ir fi-oni us, and W(^ 
noticed that all the "s])orts" who wei-e on Telos and Cham- 
berlain seemed to sjXMid their eveinniis close to the i^irls. 
Sonu^ six months aftei- oui- sojourn there we i-eceived 
cai-ds invitinu us to a weddini:. the bi-i(ie and bridei:ro(nn 
ha\'inii tirst met on i)ictures(|ue Telos. 

The day after our ari-iNal on Telos we had a seance 
with sonu^ feathered fowl, and we are not likely to re])eat 
the exju'rience. Lea\inu the iL:ui<les at home, we went on 
an unsuccessful expeilition foi' another su])])ly of v(Mnson. 
Not a deer or a moose did we see. On the rivers and lakes 
of Maine one often sees flocks of youni:, ducks skii)pin:Lr 
along, too young to fly; they are always led by the old 
ones. As we were coming out of a small tributary of Telos, 
just as we entered the lake, not less than forty ducks came 
out of the grass, slid into tlu^ water, and started swimming 
up the lake. A\\^ tired our rifle and expect(Ml them to rise 
and fly; as they did not, we, of course, thought they were 
too young, and so an easy task to run down. 

Away went the ducks, cliuruing the water, and we after 
them. Soon tliey strung out in line, one seeming to be 



WHERE THE SroiM\SMAX LOVES TO LINGER. 



103 



the leader, whieli kept up a peculiar noise — a call, we in- 
ferred. We paddled with all our stren,i!,th, the ducks kick- 
ing up tlie water in i^reat shape, uuiking a noise like a 
cataract. Occasionalh^ they would rest for a moment; we 
thouiiht thev were winded and that we were caininii: on 




The Deer We Couldn't Eat. 



them, but the gaining was merel}^ a delusion. For several 
miles we kept up the chase, but finally, through exhaustion, 
w-ere compelled to call a halt and started home. 

We did not mention the occurrence to our guides, as we 
were not very anxious for them to know tliat we had been 
making fo(ds of ourselves. AVe were under the impression 
that if our wind had not given out and we could have coj»- 
tinued a mile or two further we Avould have bagged the 



1(U 



WIIKRE THE S^()liTJ^MAX LOVES TO LINGER. 



game, but that evening we learned to the eontrary. We 
determined to find a solution of the problem that very 
night. Further up the lake was anotlier camp. After sup- 
per we pushed one of the canoc^s into the lake and called 
on the occupants of the other camp, to ''feer' of them con- 




What We Saw on Webster Lake. 

cerning our experience of the afternoon. We approached 
the subject carefully, and had asked but a few questions 
when they all broke into a laugh, they having seen the 
whole circus and having been themselves taken in by the 
same game. 

They had seen us going home and, thinking we had tired 
the ducks out, proposed to bag the whole bunch; so into 
their canoes they went after the ducks, and, from what they 
told us, they ran them at least three miles further up the 



WHERE THE SP()IiTS^[AX LOVES TO LIX(;ER. 



lo: 



lake, Avitli the same result. So we would sujigest that if 
any hunter wants to bag ]\raine ducks he had better try 
them on the wing- and not on the water. 

The next day we were more successful in supplying- our 
"meat market.'' But the meat we threw away; we could 




Entering Grand Lake. 



not bear to eat it. It was a doe we killed, and she was 
giving milk. AVe imagined we could see the helpless little 
fawn in that loncdy wilderness Avaiting and starving for 
the mother that never returned. We decided then and 
there to lay aside our firearms for the rest of the trip, and 
we kept our resolution. The thought of what we had done 
saddened in a measure the balance of the trip. We de- 
rived some consolation from the fact that if we were the 



()() 



W'lIKliE Tin: Sl'OitTSMAX LOVKS TO LIXCKll. 



means of liio dcatii of a fawn at Tc^los, we saved one ou the 
Alla-as]i. 

Fortunate it is for tliose who traverse tlie woods of 
Maine for ideasui-e or profit tliat ni)on nearly all the lakes 
are tlie habitations of num. I'ew of the lakes but have their 




Dream That Came True. 

spornno- eanips, generally kept by some i>'nid(\ Telos was 
no exception. From a <>nide at the si)ortiniLi camp at the 
foot of the lake we heard some news conceriiiiiu- what they 
called ''the second East Branch drive" which oav(^ us little 
concern at first, l)ut which afterward nearly caused us to 
i»ive up the trip down the East Branch. 

To help the lo<>- drive alonii, the <»ates were up at the dam 
at the foot of Telos, givino- plenty of water to run our 
canoes through the canal to ^^'ebstel' Lake. It seems that 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



107 



years ago the outtiow of Telos aud Cliamberlain Lakes 
went doA\'n the AUagasli. Al] logs cut in that vast region 
reached tlie sea through Canadian waters, the lund)eruien 
being compelled to pay the ''Canucks" a tax thereon. To 
avoid this the lund)ermen dammed up the outlet from 




Breaking Log Winj 



Chamberlain — where we camped on tlu^ Allagash trip— 
and opened up the canal we were al)()ut to go down, thereby 
clianging the liow of the water of these lakes and their 
tributaries from Canadian to American rivers. 

The canal at the foot of Telos is a boisterous stream of 
water, somewhat rock}^ and it re([uired exj^ert cano(^ing on 
the ])art of tlie guides to float us safely into Webster Lake. 
Chase's Carry, on tlie Allngnsli, and the Horserace, on the 



108 WIIKRE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 

AYest Branch, oot us well accliniatod to take the iiiedi- 
eine dealt out to us alon^- Webster stream. We found it 
as hard a problem to solve as one will meet in many a day, 
and Ijefore we !L>ot throu.uh it one of tlie eanoes landcnl on 
a. sharp roek, euttinii' a hole a foot lonu* tlirouiiii the can- 
vas, comp(dlini»' the occu])ants to jumj) into tlie river. The 
accident occurred just Ix^fore we reache<l Indian Carry at 
tlie falls, where we intended to camp for the ni<iht. In 
that smash-up we met with our greatest misfortun(^, losing 
a camera containing many of our ])ictures. With extra 
canvas, tacks and white lead the canoe was repaircxl, and 
the next morning saw us i)assing through Second Lake 
on down the thorough f;u'e to (Irand Lake, the last lake of 
the li-ij). 

Through an oversight, we discov(M'ed, when too far to 
turn back, that we had left a bag containing, among other 
things, our su])ply of tea, collVe and tobacco, where we had 
cami)ed the night before. Fortunately thert^ was a supply 
depot on (Jrand Lake. Tlu^ tea and tobacco we got there 
W(M*e passable, but the word "col't'ee" on the package was 
the only coffee about it. 

As we neared the end of (Irand Lake we could hear the 
sound of oar-locks. With a glass we could see a bateau 
tilled A\ith men towing logs and, further down toward the 
outlet, acres of logs lloating on the surface. Having been 
told what difficulties and dangers one encounters in navi- 
gating streams while a log drive is on, we looked forward 
to the balance of our trij) with apprc^hension. But we look 
back to that forty luiles from ( rrand Lake to Grindstone as 
the most exciting, interesting and instructive of the Avhole 
four hundred, as often in this life the dreaded expectancy 
proves to be a pleasant niaterializati(m. 

Little docs one i-ealizc, as he sits in his comfortable home. 



WHERE THE SroKTt^MAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



109 



wliat hardships men have en<lnred to o])tain tlie materials 
that compose it. In th(^ Avinter, with its deep snows and 
zero Aveather, far up on the mountainside the poorly paid 
Avoodehoppers Avork from early morn until late at ni.i>ht, 
some felling trees, others euttiiiji: off the lind)s, sawing oft 




./ 


1. 


■ffiiii 


'j 







Winter Scene. 



the tops and stripping the bark; others, Avith the aid of 
horses, hauling the logs doAvn the mountainside onto tlie 
frozen lakes and streams, on AAiiich, as the ice goes out, 
they are floated to the mills. 

They told us fcAV i)arties take the East Branch trip, being 
discouraged by guides, Avho trutlifully tell of its rough 
Avaters; so Ave Avere someAvhat of a curiosity. The Mainc^ 
log-driver is generally French. There are a few Indians 



110 WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVEiS TO LINGER. 

and an occasional "Yank.'' The bosses are all Americans, 
some bein^L*' vonni;- men and well edncated. That nii»lit we 
camixMl at tlie dam at tli(^ foot of (Jrand Lake and saw for 
the first time the sluicini; of logs. 



WHEKK THE Sl^UliTSMAX LOVES TO LlXGEll. Ill 



CHAPTER IX. 

FROM GIIAXI) LAKE HOME. 

The Enst Branch from (h-and Lake' to Bowliii Pitcli U 
about as rough a piece of water as the average canoenian 
eares to tackle, and when, in addition, you have a lot of 
logs sailing on all sides, it is enough to give you a good 
start for a sanitarium. There was no alternative for us 
but to go on with the logs, for if we waited for the drive 
to get througli to Grindstone tlie business of a certain New 
York law office would come to a stop and the patients of a 
Bangor dentist would l>e howling with pain. 

The telephone is a godsend to the river driver. Prior 
to its use, Avlunievei' ther(^ was a jam there was no way of 
stopping the oncoming logs or s(M-uring help except l)y the 
slow information conv(\v(Ml by nuni on foot. We found 
the telephone all along the East Branch. At all the falls, 
rapids and sharp Ixmds in the river were telephone boxes 
nailed to trees, with men nearby ready to notify those al)ove 
of any jam below. 

The day ^ye selected to start from Grand Lake, on ac- 
count of a jam furtlier down, they stopped sluicing, leaving 
the river free of logs and affording us smooth sailing to 
Stair Falls. At that point tliere is a cariw. As we neared 
Haskell Bock we could see logs and troul)le ahead. They 
were holding back the logs on account of the jam below. 



112 WIIKKE THE Sl'OKTSMAN LOVES TO LINCJEU, 

The banks of the river where we struck the loi;s was low, 
the water buekinu,- far into the interior. There was a. (luar- 
ter of a mile of h)i!,s between ns and Jlaskell Kock ; the 
afternoon was waninii' away; there was no phice to canii) 
tliere, and we wei*e siniidy beinj;' devoured by that atfection- 




Making a Carry Over Logs. 

ate little creature, the nios(iuito, wliicli seems to be (n'er in 
evidence, Avhetlier you arc^ in the troi)ics, under the bamlxx) 
tree, or in tlie Arctic Circle seeking u'old aloni> the Yukon. 
After two hours of punchino- loos and ilraii^ino the canoes 
over them we struck solid ground that led to Haskell Kock. 
There are ahvays pitched at convenient distances along 
the ri^er during a log drive two tents — one a large ''lean- 
to/' for tlie men to sleep in, and the other a place to eat. 
In the latter, called a "wangan," are the cook's (piarters, 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LIX(n:R. 



113 



Aviiere all the cooking- is done. There are no more hos- 
jii table set of men on eartli than the cooks in the woods of 
]\Iaine. As a stranger enters a 'Svangan" almost the first 
word spoken is an invitation from the cook : ''Will you 
liave a disli of beans and a cnp of tea?'' No one knows 




Rounding Log Wings — Hulling Machine. 

when a stranger enters a ''wangan" Avhere he comes from. 
Possibly he has been lost in the woods and is in a starving- 
condition. 

While we were in camp that night at Haskell Rock we 
were informed by the Bangor Indian that the boss of the 
rear of the drive was eating his snp])er in the ''wangan.'' 
Onr experience with the average New York politician had 
tanglit us that it was not a bad idea to get on the right 
side of the ''man higher up." From the men along the line 



lU 



WIIKKE Tin: SPOKTSMAX LOVES TO LIXCJER. 



we would likely seek iiilorniatioii and ])ossibly reciuire as- 
sistanee. AVe knew soiiietliiiiii ahont tlie potency of whis- 
key, especially in a pi-oliibition Stat(^, where a river driver 
was concerned. One (juart bottle of the two we had pur- 
chased at dair's, on the Canadian frontier, ()})posite Fort 




Taking a Breathing Spell. 

Kent, remained. On sc^veral occasions w(^ noticed that the 
Kin(H) Indian had his eye on it, and, fearinu that lu^ nii.i'iit 
<»et his hand on the object of his eye and paint some "wan- 
«an'' the same beautiful color he had the little New I>runs- 
wick town of Connors, we ])roceeded to place that bottle 
of "medi<'ine" Avluu-e it would do the most 2,ood, and it 
proved to be the best investment we made on the entire trip. 
There is a !L»reat dilference between a New Yorker and a 
New Kniilanih'r as r(\t;ards nicttini*- acciuaintcd. It did not 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



IK 



take us loiii; to get a little Scottish importation inside of 
the anatomy of the boss of the rear of the log drive and the 
bottle in one of his hip pockets. Just before we retired for 
the niglit the Bangor Indian j)oked his head into our tent, 
telling us: '^Evei-ything is O. K. You fixed it." 




Up Ai 



ust It at Last. 



Next day Ave started down the river witli the logs, a canoe 
accompanying us, occupied by two river drivers, as a ''wind 
shield'' against the logs. Across all tlie carrys th(^ occu- 
pants of the canoe assisted us. Tlie word was tele]>hon(Ml 
along the line: ''Distinguished party coming down the 
river; render all assistanc(\'' What an important message 
that was to us. Instead of meeting a lot of rough river 
drivers,an army of riiesterticdds was continually at our ser- 
vice. Our reception was like the triumpliant return of the 



11 G WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 

victor Avitli tlie spoils of war. Even the stolid Indian ouidos 
could not help ])nt smile at the seipiel to the presentation of 
that bottle of nervine. The innocent loii-driver thouiiiit he 
Avas payin<»: honiai^e to some high and miiihty ])otentate, 
and it seems cold-blooded that a IxMieficiary of his kind- 
ness should be the first to ])ub]ish the d(M'e])tion to the 
Avorld. 'J'h(^ KIneo Indian shed a few tears when we i)arted 
with our last dro]) of ''tire-water/' but afterward admitled 
that ^^tlie New Yorker knows a trick or two.'' At r>owlin 
h'alls, Avhere we were to cam]) tliat ni.ulit, ended tlu^ hard 
]»art of tlie river. There our escort bade us i^ood-byc^, and 
we ])itched our tents on tlie brink of the falls, where we 
were to pass the most memorable night of any yet 
experienced. 

It was a beautiful moonlight night; onc^ could see the 
])assing logs rolling and ])lnnging ovcm- the falls into the 
whirljxx)! below. ( )ccasi(vnally a jam would form below 
the falls, and men with dynamile would break it, throw- 
ing ])ieces of logs from the river valley far back into the 
woods. Between the plunging logs, roa:- of tlu* waters and 
discharges of dynamite th«'re was an awful noise the whole 
night through. All the next day, down to Whetstone, w(^ 
had many narrow escapes from being crushed, and it re- 
quired the best kind of a canoeman to save us from being 
sucked under while rotmding log wings. 

From Whetstone to (irindston(\ the end of our canoe 
trip, Avas ten miles. From what they told tis up vlvcv about 
the log jam at (Grindstone, we considered ourselvi^s fortu- 
nate in getting to Whetstone. At every turn of th(^ river 
we expected to see our further progress blocked. As luck 
would have it, we struck the solid jam opposite some sport- 
ing camps, where aac hired a team to tak(^ us overland to 
(irindstone, there catching the evening train for Bangor. 



WHEKE THE .srOKTSMAN LOVES TO LIXCJER. 



11 



The East Branch from l>o\vlin waters down runs througli 
as wiki and pictures(jue a country as the most devout 
lover of nature could long' for. The rapid river winds 
among high, densely wooded banks. Already tlie autumnal 
hue Avas adding to the beauties of the whole scene. The 




Grindstone— Scene from Taking-Out Place. The End of Our Canoe Trip. 

crimson maple hnif, with the evergreen foliage as a back- 
ground, was an ideal picture for the artist As we glided 
along, the struggling logs were battling with each other 
for supremacy. Like poor unfortunates along the coast 
line of the Sea of Life, the banks Avere strewn with them. 
Some tired, so to speak, of the struggle, had sought rest 
voluntarily; others, crowded from the race l\v the more 
powerful, combinations formed to destroy the hopes of the 
weaker, were at one time floating in peace in smooth 



lis 



WllKKE THE SroUTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



A\at('rs,tlieii scarring eaek other while pounding over rough 
and rugged pathways, and tlien again floating into pleas- 
ant waters — all blindly rusliing on, ignorant of purpose, 
and liow, when or where it would all end, yet finally to be 
transformed, as we hope to be, into something grander and 
nobler. 




Near Old Town. The Entire Party, by Request of the Guides. 

At r>angoi' we parted with our faithful guides, changed 
buckskin for broadcloth, bough beds for mjcrolje mat- 
tresses, tlie plain cooking of the guides for the dyspeptic 
combination of tlie average chef, eight hours of refreshing 
sleep for more or less tossing, three scpiare meals for no 
appetite, pure air for sewer gas, the rod and the rifle for 
the pen and the I'olltop desk, health and happiness for 
Avork and ^Norrv — in fact, turned our l)acks on what thev 



WIIEliE THE SrOUTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



119 



tell us is a barbaric life for what we are taught to believe 
is civilizatiou. 

The uight after we arrived iu Baugor we attenchd a 
grand rally of tlie Democracy. Being Democrats, we tried 




Kenduskeag Stream, Bangor. Nearing tlie Buzz-Saw. 



to swell the croAvd, and, then, we always did have a fellow- 
feeling for the under dog. Through the courtesy of the 
]\rayor of the city Ave had seats on the platform. They 
AA'ere electing a Governor — we do not mean the Democracy; 
they would not be guilty of that offense; only two or three 



120 



wiiKin-: Tin: spokts.max lovks to lin(;i:r. 



times in the liistorv of the State have they sliown such dis- 
courtesy toward the Republicans. Tliere is one satisfac- 
tion a Democrat in ^Nfaine can speak liis mind without en- 
dani»ei-ini»- the success of his party. Tliei-e is some conso- 
laticm in that. 

The dilferent speakers were i^iven j)leiity of rope, witli- 



L 






U ajt» J 







'City of Rockland.' 



out au}^ fear of hanuing themselyes, as all sides admitteil 
that the executiun was oyer before the curtain went ui>. 
A fellow has lots more fun in a game when he has nothing 
at stake. AVhile the Republicans were collared, bridled 
and coached, the Democrats were collarless, unbridled and 
unhorsed. A man by tlie name of Cobb was the Republican 
candidate. All the speakers spoke well of him personally, 



\^'HERE THE SPORTS:\rAX LOVES TO LINGER. 121 

but the jireat conibinatioiis lie belonged to and fostered 
were the objects of the Denioeracy's attaek. One of the 
speakers broke all the furniture within his reach emphasiz- 
ing what Avould happen to the State of ^Nlaine in particular, 
and the country in general, if monopolist Cobb reached the 
Governor's chair. 

^^'e certainly would not poke fun at our own party, but 
we can appreciate a. good thing when we se(^ it, even if it 
is on us. After the meeting Avas over we made imjuiries 
as to Co]>b's monopolistic associations. Our informant — a 
Avag, no doubt — said ('ol)b Avas treasurer of a lime com- 
pany having a capacity of ten barrcds a week ; Avas director 
of a street car company, Avliose e(|ui])ment consisted of 
tAvo cars and three mules; was vice-president of a bank 
that had nine thousand seven hundred and eight-four dol- 
lars and sixteen cents subject to check, and Avas president 
of the liOckland Baseball Club. Cobb Avas elected and "the 
gOA^ernment at Washington still lives." 

The next afternoon Ave took passage on the Boston boat, 
the "City of Rockland." As Ave passed down the A^alley 
of the Penobscot our thoughts Avandered back to its head- 
Avaters, and Ave Avonder(Ml if the same little droi)s of Avater 
we cut Avitli our canoes in that far-off Avilderness Avere float- 
ing the "Rockland" to the sea. Along the v\\oy banks one 
could see large ice-houses, some in process of decay. Back 
of each Avere the little settlements of the ice harvesters, 
Avho had bought land and built houses, believing tluw 
Avould ahvays find employment at their vocation. Little 
did tlR\y know that on the formation of what is knoAvn as 
the American Ice Company the Avork that God had pro- 
vided for their support Avas to be taken from them by man. 
That great com!)ination bought all the ice-houses on the 
Penobscot and the Hudson, the source of the main ice sup- 



122 



^^'HERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 



ply of 2sew York and New England. As it was to its 
interest, some years it would harvest no ice on the Peuob- 
seot, and eonse(|uently many of those poor people 
lost their homes. The iee haivester of tlie l^enobscot is 
not Ihe only victim of monoi)olisiic tcnih-ncies in tliis coun- 
try; there are like examples tlirouiiliout the oil rci^ions of 
Pennsylvania and over tlu^ cattle ranges of the plains. 



J 



k 



jt^m^^ 










•Priscilla.' 



There is no more interestinii river rid(^ in lliis country 
than down the Penobscot from l>anii()r to Rockland. The 
boat makes many landiniis, Avhich, instead of causini»- an- 
noyance, as sto])s generally do, add interest to th(^ tri^), 
as the docks at the little towns are crowded with natives 
and tourists, and the liustling freii;ht handleis cause many 
amusing scenes. As we landed at Bucksport an'c imagined 
we could see old Jed Prouty, still the quaint boniface of 
the litth^ hotel on the hillside. The well-])uilt and hand- 



WHERE THE SPORTSMAN LOVES TO LINGER. 123 

some boats of tlie Boston and Bangor line and its accoin- 
niodating officers also add pleasure to the trip. The rising 
sun was burning a hole through the fog as the ''City of 
Koekland" was slowly feeling her way up the harbor of 
Boston. 

^\(i spent the day Avith some friends at Newport, and 
that evening boarded the ''PriseiUa/' of the Fall Kiver 
Line — the (jueen of the eoast line steamers. It was delight- 
ful to be again aboard a New York boat, especially the 
finest of them all, with its stylishly gowned ladies, its band 
of musie, its brilliantly lighted salocms, and its service sur- 
passed l)y none. As we passed down the East Kiver early 
the following morning we saluted the "North Star'' at her 
dock, and, rounding the Battery, we were soon alongside 
of 1M(T 11), North Kiver. 

The same faithful servants with the same wagonette were 
there to meet us. What a change! The pale, thin disciple 
of Blackstone had IxH^n transformed into a sunbrowned, 
strenuous athlete. \\ hat a blessing it is that there are 
havens where one can regain his health, wdthout w hicli this 
life is not worth the living! 



THE END. 



NOV 7 1895 



